Okay, the other day I was doing my thing working on the computer as I do to pay the bills. I was due to get off in 15-minutes at 3:00. I had planned on playing with the groms in the afternoon before the official dinner/bath/bedtime routine was due to commence. My wife had to teach a pilates at 6:00 so I was on the solo creep. No complaints I definitely have a house-dad mentality. Just then as I was contemplating my afternoon the phone rang...it was my wife who was chillin' at her friends house for a bit.
She says, "You're almost off right?! I heard the waves are good...you should go surf! I'll be home in a few minutes!"
That's love y'all!
She came home. I charged it to the beach. It was sizey, fairly clean, but a bit fat on the outside due to the tide. I opted to grab my fins to bodysurf the inside. I had some fun, heaving barrels!!!
My wife really stoked me out with that gesture. For all of you other surfers out there I am sending you good vibes that the people in your lives recognize the positive influence surfing has on your life and supports your desire/need to get in the water! And for you non-surfers...thanks for the understanding!
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