During my session the other day I was thinking about my experiences as a Black Surfer. Is it necessary to make the distinction? Is there a distinction? Aren’t I just a surfer with darker skin than the popularized image of surfers? The short answer is: yes. The long answer will be covered in our documentary. But here are some medium thoughts.
As I approached my car after a fun surf there was a different car parked next to me. There was a mini-van with all of the doors open. The back had 3 surfboards and a bodyboard. Inside and around the mini-van were 4 Japanese surfers who were smoking cloves and passing around a bag of Cheetos while gangster rap echoed out into the parking lot. I found the scene fascinating….liberating….inspiring! It made me realize one of the reasons I love surfing.
That image shook up any preconceived idea I had about how we need to behave to be a part of society. Theirs was an image of free expression. They were not fitting into any idea or ideal. They were just doing their thing. And by doing so they caused me to stop for a moment and assess my own judgments. They brought me an awareness of the possibility to live life how I desire. They brought me to the moment.
Being a Black Surfer has a similar affect. I see it almost every time I paddle out. Whether it is the double-takes and paused stares I get as I suit up in the parking lot. Or the actual comments people have given me when they realize I am going surfing: “You’re going surfing? I’ve never seen a black fellow surf before.” – “Go ahead on, Brotha!” While hitchhiking with my board in South Africa back in ‘96 a local Afrikaaner stopped to pick me up. He said with wonder in his eyes, “I’ve lived in South Africa all of my life and I’ve never seen a Black Surfer! Hop in!”. I’ve had similar comments in the water. But what is more common is the attentive way all eyes are on me when I catch my first wave (and most waves thereafter). I can only speculate as to what is on people’s minds but it is clear that their minds are on full alert.
This ‘awakening’ is definitely not why I surf but it is a great side effect.
