it was a neat day at OB.
the sand was pushed high up against the breakwall from the big surf.
there was a 20-foot margin of driftwood and debris near the wall
the negative tide left an expansive beach that was unusually rich with iron making OB a black sand beach
people were wandering the beach with a curiosity that made me think of post-hurricane explorations where you are glad to be out of the house and very interested in how things have changed.
saw a bunch of groups of people sifting through the driftwood and taking pieces.
i saw no wildlife...no pelicans...no sea lions...no dolphins
there were surfers everywhere...putting on suits...taking off suits.
none of them walked to the waves...every surfer ran to the water
the waves were waist to chest high...clean...and down the line
i resisted the side-shore current and enjoyed a bounty all to myself
there was an air of gratitude
