I am a surfer, obviously. Surfing...the ocean...the sand...the sun...the sea creatures are an intimate part of who I am. Really we're all ONE thing but that's not the subject for today. I grew up in southern California by the beach. The beach became my definition of fun. My folks would take my Sister and I to the beach when we were young to play in the sand and explore the tide pools. A couple times a year my folks would have beach cookouts with their friends and my sister and I would bring our little crew along. Those were always special times because now not only did we have the beach, but we had a whole camp full of scrumptious food! My mom is an exquisite chef by hobby & her best friend is a exquisite chef by profession....I'm talking seafood smorgasbord! In junior high/high school my Friends and I would get ourselves to the beach to ride the waves, snorkel or just hang out in the sand. Going to the beach was always guaranteed to grant us a good time!
I am so thankful for my parents relocating our family from Ossining, NY to SoCal when I was 5. And I am thankful for all the beach time they granted me. I really owe my love of the ocean to them. Even though my Dad rarely went into the water and my Mom cannot swim they introduced me to beach. Once the relationship developed I explored it in different ways...
Now I am a father of two and, lo and behold, I take the girls to the beach ALL the time. The ocean has given me so much that I would love to pass on that gift for them to explore as they see fit.
And with that generosity of spirit in mind it gave me so much pleasure to watch as my 4 year old daughter eagerly & joyfully scraped all the old wax off my surfboard : )
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