our lives...
what are our lives all about?
what are we doing with our lives?
are we happy?
are we paying attention?
are we grateful for all the little things?...and the big things?
what is this living thing all about?
a fellow surfer died a few days ago
DAVID KEETIN
what?
he was not old...he was a dad...a surfer
he planned the black surfing associations annual mexico surf trips
he was bright...positive...happy
he loved surfing!
they found stage 4 lung cancer
weeks later...he's gone
what?
it happens i know
but
what?
i am not old...i am a dad...a surfer
i help plan the annual black surfer campout in big sur
i am bright...positive...happy
i love surfing!
???
this is our moment
this breathe
this glance
this thought
this is our life
let us live it
fully
be here!
now
this is the time
our chance to shine!
Thursday, February 24, 2011
#33 A Chance Encounter...
This actually took place back in June of 2010. While browsing in our local used bookstore I was catching this vibe that I was being watched while I flipped the pages of Surfer's Journal. Trippy how you can feel that stuff! Well, not really that trippy since we are all way more powerfully aware than we think we are! Okay, okay it is trippy! Anyway, as I left the store I heard a voice say "Hey!". In denial of my awareness(or maybe just testing it) I let the call fall unaddressed. And then I heard the call again; this time with more determination behind it. I turned to see a friendly guy to whom I immediately felt a connection.
He asked if I was a surfer and introduced himself as Santiago a surfer/journalist from Argentina. He asked if he could interview me for his blog. He was representing Wave Tribe...the first ALL GREEN SURF COMPANY. Of course, I was eager to participate so we exchanged info and hooked up at my place a few days later.
[CLICK HERE TO READ INTERVIEW]
How do these 'chance' encounters occur? Are they chance? The fact is that for the a few months leading up to that moment I had been putting a lot of thought into the idea of a future as an "International Humanitarian Surf Ambassador". I never defined exactly what that was, but it feels and sounds right. I actually still don't know exactly what that is, but I am going to put it out there and stay open to the next 'chance' encounter.
Like when I met Danny Hess. My wife and I were on our honeymoon in Costa Rica back in 2004. It was 3 weeks of backpacking around with no particular plans other than to visit the east and west coasts. Oh, and I did have my surfboard so getting some waves was on the agenda : ) We ended up meeting this Canadian couple on the east coast who got us all fired up to join them on a quick jump across the border into Panama to check out Bocas Del Toro island.
When boarding the bus, there was a surfer struggling to get his massive board bag into the baggage area under the bus. I helped him stuff it in there without many words and we boarded the bus. On the Panama side of the boarder we all split up as the hoard of taxi drivers compelled us in different directions. There were two different ferries to the island; we ended up on the same one. He and his wife Erin at the back and us in the front. Still, not even knowing each others names I sent back our camera to him to snap a photo of our honeymoon ferry ride.
Alisa was deeply invested in sampling as much Central American coffee as humanly possible, so we hit the cafe immediately upon landing on the island. The decor was a combination botanical garden meets shipwreck heirlooms, meets surfboard graveyard. I don't know why the light bulb hadn't turned on previously, but this island had waves! Good waves!
Once her caffeine kicked in we were off to find the most lounging accommodation possible. On our 4th stop we came upon this neat little hotel, it only had 4 rooms on the second level for guests. Two rooms faced inland which was cool enough since it is still a tropical island. Aaahh, but the front two rooms shared a huge balcony with hammocks and lounge chairs and had an across-the-street view of the ocean! We picked a room on the front : )
The owning family lived in half of the downstairs. The other half was an open air lounge area great for watching passersby....and for feeling the breeze when the warm afternoon rains would blow down the street.
And if this wasn't excellent enough for our week long stay....luck..chance..fate gifted us with hometown San Francisco locals Danny and Erin Hess as balcony neighbors!
It was there that I was first introduced to the his magic wooden boards. It was love at first sight! I can still remember when I first viewed it in the hallway. It was like an apparition. I could not believe what I was seeing. It was the most gorgeous surfboard I had ever seen. And then when the forever humble Danny said that he made it I was floored. It was shortly after that I made my 10 centavos down payment for my first board!
We had a blast surfing down there. Early morning walks through the sleeping town to a lonely pier waiting for an early bird ponga driver to shuttle us to the surf. Or the epic single-track muddy hike over a neighboring island to a beautiful beach break with our wives. Or watching the local kids bust 360 airs while gold chains dangled from their neck. And dare I forget the evening munching of the mysterious orange and delicious burgers that would bless our palates on rare evenings.
How is it that thousands of miles from home I meet this guy who lives less than 5 miles away at just the right time to have a surf adventure? Chance?
I believe, life is more powerful than chance.
Our connections with those around us, near or far, are stronger than chance.
There is an organized unfolding of existence.
And if we pay attention....sometimes we are fortunate enough to glimpse behind the curtain!
He asked if I was a surfer and introduced himself as Santiago a surfer/journalist from Argentina. He asked if he could interview me for his blog. He was representing Wave Tribe...the first ALL GREEN SURF COMPANY. Of course, I was eager to participate so we exchanged info and hooked up at my place a few days later.
[CLICK HERE TO READ INTERVIEW]
How do these 'chance' encounters occur? Are they chance? The fact is that for the a few months leading up to that moment I had been putting a lot of thought into the idea of a future as an "International Humanitarian Surf Ambassador". I never defined exactly what that was, but it feels and sounds right. I actually still don't know exactly what that is, but I am going to put it out there and stay open to the next 'chance' encounter.
Like when I met Danny Hess. My wife and I were on our honeymoon in Costa Rica back in 2004. It was 3 weeks of backpacking around with no particular plans other than to visit the east and west coasts. Oh, and I did have my surfboard so getting some waves was on the agenda : ) We ended up meeting this Canadian couple on the east coast who got us all fired up to join them on a quick jump across the border into Panama to check out Bocas Del Toro island.
When boarding the bus, there was a surfer struggling to get his massive board bag into the baggage area under the bus. I helped him stuff it in there without many words and we boarded the bus. On the Panama side of the boarder we all split up as the hoard of taxi drivers compelled us in different directions. There were two different ferries to the island; we ended up on the same one. He and his wife Erin at the back and us in the front. Still, not even knowing each others names I sent back our camera to him to snap a photo of our honeymoon ferry ride.
Alisa was deeply invested in sampling as much Central American coffee as humanly possible, so we hit the cafe immediately upon landing on the island. The decor was a combination botanical garden meets shipwreck heirlooms, meets surfboard graveyard. I don't know why the light bulb hadn't turned on previously, but this island had waves! Good waves!
Once her caffeine kicked in we were off to find the most lounging accommodation possible. On our 4th stop we came upon this neat little hotel, it only had 4 rooms on the second level for guests. Two rooms faced inland which was cool enough since it is still a tropical island. Aaahh, but the front two rooms shared a huge balcony with hammocks and lounge chairs and had an across-the-street view of the ocean! We picked a room on the front : )
The owning family lived in half of the downstairs. The other half was an open air lounge area great for watching passersby....and for feeling the breeze when the warm afternoon rains would blow down the street.
And if this wasn't excellent enough for our week long stay....luck..chance..fate gifted us with hometown San Francisco locals Danny and Erin Hess as balcony neighbors!
It was there that I was first introduced to the his magic wooden boards. It was love at first sight! I can still remember when I first viewed it in the hallway. It was like an apparition. I could not believe what I was seeing. It was the most gorgeous surfboard I had ever seen. And then when the forever humble Danny said that he made it I was floored. It was shortly after that I made my 10 centavos down payment for my first board!
We had a blast surfing down there. Early morning walks through the sleeping town to a lonely pier waiting for an early bird ponga driver to shuttle us to the surf. Or the epic single-track muddy hike over a neighboring island to a beautiful beach break with our wives. Or watching the local kids bust 360 airs while gold chains dangled from their neck. And dare I forget the evening munching of the mysterious orange and delicious burgers that would bless our palates on rare evenings.
How is it that thousands of miles from home I meet this guy who lives less than 5 miles away at just the right time to have a surf adventure? Chance?
I believe, life is more powerful than chance.
Our connections with those around us, near or far, are stronger than chance.
There is an organized unfolding of existence.
And if we pay attention....sometimes we are fortunate enough to glimpse behind the curtain!
Friday, February 18, 2011
#31 La Manzana Grande
My wife and I got to spend a couple days in La Manzana Grande over the over the holidays. And lucky for us it was the exact time that the blizzard hit the east coast. The snow started to fall late morning as we rode the bus into town from my folks place in Jersey....and then it didn't stop! We didn't get up to our usual antics in the city, but instead had a snow-filled adventure!
Caught this wave on a late night walk...
Got inspired to do some blizzard surf art...
Caught this wave on a late night walk...
Got inspired to do some blizzard surf art...
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
#30 yet another BALANCE BOARD
This is one of my latest homemade budget~friendly toys.
I am 6'2" with super long limbs and short torso so my center of gravity is high.
Not good for surfing!
I use this thing train myself to be able to squat lower and for longer.
Advice I got from tall shredder Danny Hess.
It is definitely working.
It is surprising how difficult it is to reprogram muscle memory,however.
Once I get in the water the usual patterns of standing erect for balance show up.
Still, I'll find myself in positions and places on the wave that I've never experienced all because of the increased strength and stability in a lower position relative to the board.
Surfing is freakin' fun!
I am 6'2" with super long limbs and short torso so my center of gravity is high.
Not good for surfing!
I use this thing train myself to be able to squat lower and for longer.
Advice I got from tall shredder Danny Hess.
It is definitely working.
It is surprising how difficult it is to reprogram muscle memory,however.
Once I get in the water the usual patterns of standing erect for balance show up.
Still, I'll find myself in positions and places on the wave that I've never experienced all because of the increased strength and stability in a lower position relative to the board.
Surfing is freakin' fun!
Sunday, February 13, 2011
#29 Photo Opp'
Back for some bodysurfing
Having a squat while I sort where to jump in
Nice guy with an old school camera wanted to snap off a photo...
Having a squat while I sort where to jump in
Nice guy with an old school camera wanted to snap off a photo...
Thursday, February 03, 2011
#28 Always going off!
It is all about having the fins in the back of the car at all times.
Over the last couple years or so my passion for bodysurfing has skyrocketed. The spring/summer here offer up some notoriously windy and junky conditions. It's the kind of conditions that hurt your feelings just to see them. It can honestly be depressing to stare out over a mangled ocean while the gusty onshore wind splatters your face with salty water. That is....if you have not adopted bodysurfing into your surf repertoire!
The magic of Ocean Beach is that even though the wind may play destroyer to the nice wave quality there is usually still some swell energy out there. This is where the fins come in!
I'll look out at the criss-crossed, turbulent, victory-at-sea conditions and I'll see it....a closeout barrel! Boom! That's all it takes.....the wetsuit comes on, the ear plugs go in and with fins in hand I race down to the waters edge to stretch, don the fins, give thanks and jump in!
What a rush to be diving under the waves...feeling every swirl and undulation as the water pushes, pulls, holds and releases me. I have this sense of vulnerability and power as I navigate on the edge of this incomprehensible massive body of water. The coldness and darkness of the water adds to the mystery and excitement. And on most of these less-than-pleasant-for-most conditions I will be the only one in the water. The experience transcends surfing in a way. There's a pureness....a simplicity about it that resonates to the core of my being.
And with all these 'feelings' going on I still search out the longest ride and biggest barrel I can muster. I have gone so fast on a couple that I felt like a helpless pebble being skipped by a child. I have had more tube time than ever before in my life. I have also been scared out of my gourd when the rough conditions proved to be too rough. As a bonus prize it turns out to be amazing exercise. When I return to my surfboard it feels like a retreat.
I have learned a lot about the wave by bodysurfing. There is more intimacy and awareness with my body submerged into the energy source. I learned from the legendary Ocean Beach bodysurfer, Judith Sheridan, about the pocket of energy inside the wave & how to submerge myself into the wave just as it crests for no paddle take-off's. This has been a trippy experience because on a couple attempts I was launched out with so much force that I was sent flying to the trough of the wave...like being shot out of a cannon! I've also been learning about the barrel. On a surfboard I am not an experienced tube rider. I've had some in & outs, but nowhere near as many as I need! This has allowed me to get more comfortable being inside the barrel and experiencing how much space is in there so that I can translate this onto my board riding experience.
The best part of all of this is that now when I go the beach -- It's always going off!
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