Friday, December 12, 2008

#22 Brain Saver!

A few years back….wow, it’s actually been 12 years….when I was on my endless summer surf mission out in the wide open world I spent some time in Australia. DB and I were posted up in the crayfishing town of Dongara about 300 km north of Perth. We just happened upon the place.

Having been out of the States for about 10-months when we landed in Oz our goal was to get a job and rebuild the savings. That way we could live carefree in New Zealand for the next leg of the adventure….it worked! We were at a hostel in Perth putting some feelers out for only a couple dayz when I overheard this dude talking about some farm he knew of up the coast that needed people to pick zucchini. Perfect!

I got the info and called right away from a payphone in the parking lot. Richie answered with his soon to become familiar, friendly voice and said he owned a hostel in Dongara and that he would hook us up with the zucchini job. And just like that it was on….a couple days in the country and we had a job and a place to stay.

That’s the joy of traveling. You are forced to pay attention to your surroundings and be open to people which creates opportunity after opportunity. In our daily lives it is easy to run on auto-pilot and miss all of the gifts.

So the next day we jumped on a bus and headed up the coast. Richie met us at the bus station with his Landcruiser and what do you know…..he’s got a surfboard hanging inside his truck! Now it was really ON!

We lived and worked 7 days a week for a couple months picking zucchini! Those things are low to the ground…hard work…but that’s another story. We bought a car. There was a local surf spot we hit regularly. Went out on a crayfishing boat. Worked in a sheep-shearing shed. Lots of cool stuff but the thing I’m trying to get to is my helmet!

One of the cool cats we met there was Andy. He worked 8-9 months a year as a crayfisherman. For the rest of the time he chased surf around in Indonesia. Over the years he found himself getting more comfortable in the hollow reef breaks and taking more risks in bigger surf. He reached a point where he wanted a helmet but didn’t like the bulky Gath helmets. So as any industrious Aussie would do…he made his own!

The helmet is totally custom made for the surfer. He starts by making a mold of the head and then builds the helmet around the mold. It is an exact fit. The shell is Kevlar which is basically indestructible. It is super light. After all his surfing buddies saw his he ended up making them for all of them. He actually began to support some his travels by bring the materials to Indo and making helmets for surfers.

Here’s mine on its second paint job….



This thing has been perfect for surfing Ocean Beach. The water is so cold that a lot of people wear hooded wetsuits. My helmet fits so snug that it is like a hood...with benefits...especially on the bigger days!

Friday, December 05, 2008

#21 Fortunate Fellow…

There seems to be a theme of thanks these dayz. This morning I got up early for a dawn patrol session before work. I got to the beach before the sunrise. The winds were steady offshore. The swell was a little overhead and organized. There were only a couple people out and a couple suiting up. Once in the water, the sun rose bright orange behind the mist fanning off the top of the waves. The sky awakened and another beautiful day began…

So good to be a surfer.