#12 Enjoyment

There is that famous quote that I’ve heard many times and in many places that goes something like: The best surfer is the one who is having the most fun. I’m not sure who said it but I’m glad they did. This idea has been on my mind a lot recently as I’ve found myself losing some of the pure enjoyment of surfing.

I have been putting a lot of thought and energy into improving my game in the water. Outside the water I have been developing the ‘perfect’ workout routine to maximize my strength and flexibility and balance in the water. There is the stuff from the last entry but that is only the beginning. I am constantly finding excuses to squat down so that low center of balance position becomes 2nd nature. It is a big deal for me at 6’2” and all the height coming from my legs. My wife likes to enjoy the fact that when we sit down she looks down on me.

And then there are the thoughts of surfing. All day long I am daydreaming and analyzing and plotting surf related ideas. I do take breaks to accomplish needed tasks but those are like commercial breaks from the 24~hour marathon. The other day I was telling my wife about a wave I had gotten and midway through I let out this big grunt as I simulated a turn. She laughed and said, “wow, you don’t make noises like that when we make love!” I laughed because I knew she was right and said, “well, yeah! I’ve been in love with you for 8 years but I’ve been in love with surfing for my whole life.” Fortunately, she finds understanding through her lifelong love affair with dance.

When I get in the water it’s time to apply and experiment. I paddle out with a mission. I have specific things I want to try. Each wave is a chance to improve upon the last. After a wave I analyze. What happened? What did I learn? How can I do it better? I am constantly watching other surfers to glean anything I can from there style. I am watching the ocean to see what gems of knowledge I can gather from her movement. I am obsessed to this pursuit of improvement.

I actually don’t mind a little obsession but when it starts to remove the enjoyment things are going to far. I’ve been reading this book called ‘flow’ which talks about achieving happiness. According to them one of the main ingredients to happiness is attaining enjoyment. Enjoyment is achieved through effort towards some goal. Enjoyment is achieved using some level of skill. Enjoyment isn’t always ‘fun’ at the time but when reflected on is looked at as an ‘enjoyed’ experience. Hmmmm….

The more I write about this the more I realize I don’t need to write about it. Surfing absolutely gives me enjoyment! My hang up is a tendency to want instant results. And this expectation leads to a diminished sense of enjoyment. The true lesson here is to develop compassion & patience with myself as I paddle down this lifelong watery path….