I should've taken my camera!
The weather has been hot lately and that can mean only one thing.....Fall is here! And as every Bay area surfer knows....that means the conditions for good waves are in effect! It took about 2 weeks of hot weather to equalize the pressures over the land and sea and put those onshore winds and fog to rest. Now we have calm winds and glassy water. Add in some south swell and you have the recipe for happiness.
I had been watching the pro surf contest at Trestles for the last couple days and getting all amped to surf fun waves. That wave is particularly enticing because its shape beckons you to be all that you can be. And watching the masters maximize its potential just heightens my own aspirations.
I usually like to check our local surf report: Surfpulse to get the nitty-gritty of what's happening waveside. Today I kept checking it and checking it, but every time all I saw was the post from yesterday. I could feel it....the surf was so fun that our faithful reporter had bailed the report so he could paddle. Finally, at 2pm my suspicions were validated. He had surfed for 3 hours and then was so deliriously high from the session that he forgot all about posting a report.
As fate would have it I got off work at 3pm and was in the water by 4! When I rolled up to the beach and saw the glassy conditions and peaky head high surf rolling in I felt like a little kid. The joy was so pure and the excitement so full that I hardly remember putting on my wetsuit. I only had one hour to surf before I had to return to family responsibilities. I channeled energy from watching the contest and treated the session like a heat.
I scoped the horizon with purpose looking for any and every fun wave I could get into. After a wave I would sprint back out to the line-up. I had so many waves today! The ocean knighted me a wave-magnet today! I was getting the best wave of the set every time. It was incredible. I actually started feeling a bit guilty and towards the end of the session called a couple guys into waves even though I
was in priority position. And both times that happened there was another wave behind it that was even better. I felt very fortunate this session!
I was just so happy out there! It felt good to hoot for guys when they were getting good waves. It was fun to hear dudes hoot when a set approached. The only thing missing from this session was a close friend.
Anticipation is a tricky thing. It is very easy to feel let down after longing for some outcome over a period of time. Every spring and summer I try to put the expectations for the Fall surf conditions to the back of my mind. I do things to keep me in the moment. I always take my fins with me to the beach so that I know I could get in a bodysurf. I really try to focus on being stoked with one good one. I do a lot of fitness training. But even with these tools the hopes for Fall slither their way to my attention.
I do not want to build up Fall too much in my head. There are infinite ways that it could not meet my expectations. Then there would be this empty feeling that would linger until the next Fall when I would hope for another chance. Yet, I think hope is part of our human condition. It is one of those driving forces that gets us up every morning. And so ultimately, I give in to my inner callings for good surf.
Every barrel when I'm bodysurfing is an opportunity to become more familiar with the tube so that when the Fall arrives I can hunt down some in and outs. I constantly push and refine my fitness training so that I can maximize my time in the water without injury and a body that is strong enough and flexible enough to come closer to my imaginings.
If todays session is a sign of things to come..........Yes!
If it is not...............Well, that was one fun day of Fall!
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Thursday, June 09, 2011
Monday, May 09, 2011
#35 a wave...
i was flipping through my surf journal and came across an account of a wave i encountered back in the fall....the image is so clear in my head...i wish i had a photo to share, but these words are all that is left:
i saw the most beautiful wave. it was an afternoon session at Ocean Beach. the swell was long interval and decent size. the waves were breaking on the outside sandbar and there was some nice space between them. they peaks were far away from each other so it was hard to be in the right place.
i was sitting on the outside when i see a sneaky big one appear on the horizon. i stroked to get over it, but my 6'5" didn't allow me to cover enough space fast enough so i had to go under. when i came up there as another wave...a bigger wave rising near the horizon.
an opalesce green curtain rose from the sea. the slight texture on the surface made the wave sparkle in the sinking sun. at the top of the wave a double-up formed as if to urge itself to its potential. and then the curtain fell creating a dream-like barrel that raced alone towards the shoulder.
i was memerized by the beauty of this wave!
i had no thought of trying to get over it or under it. i was content in the presence of it. my jaw hung open; my eyes did not blink. i felt present. i felt lucky. i felt grateful. i do not know if anyone else saw it. i wanted to talk to someone about it.
i wanted to ride it : )
i saw the most beautiful wave. it was an afternoon session at Ocean Beach. the swell was long interval and decent size. the waves were breaking on the outside sandbar and there was some nice space between them. they peaks were far away from each other so it was hard to be in the right place.
i was sitting on the outside when i see a sneaky big one appear on the horizon. i stroked to get over it, but my 6'5" didn't allow me to cover enough space fast enough so i had to go under. when i came up there as another wave...a bigger wave rising near the horizon.
an opalesce green curtain rose from the sea. the slight texture on the surface made the wave sparkle in the sinking sun. at the top of the wave a double-up formed as if to urge itself to its potential. and then the curtain fell creating a dream-like barrel that raced alone towards the shoulder.
i was memerized by the beauty of this wave!
i had no thought of trying to get over it or under it. i was content in the presence of it. my jaw hung open; my eyes did not blink. i felt present. i felt lucky. i felt grateful. i do not know if anyone else saw it. i wanted to talk to someone about it.
i wanted to ride it : )
Sunday, March 13, 2011
Wednesday, March 09, 2011
#33 a little balance work...
Okay, due to the overwhelming interest in people wanting to see a demo of the board: 2 people! Here are a couple clips...
Playing with this thing has added a lot of strength and comfort in a low squat. I just finished watching a few days the Quicksilver Pro at Snapper Rocks and tripping out on how much power and flow the master wave riders generate out of that coiled position. They're spring loaded whereas most of my surfing is more stickman-style.
Anyway, this toy is a definite step in the right direction of where I want to go...
This one is playing with a small weight to make the balancing muscles work a little harder...
IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE MUSCLES STRONG AROUND THE KNEES!!!
Playing with this thing has added a lot of strength and comfort in a low squat. I just finished watching a few days the Quicksilver Pro at Snapper Rocks and tripping out on how much power and flow the master wave riders generate out of that coiled position. They're spring loaded whereas most of my surfing is more stickman-style.
Anyway, this toy is a definite step in the right direction of where I want to go...
This one is playing with a small weight to make the balancing muscles work a little harder...
IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE MUSCLES STRONG AROUND THE KNEES!!!
Thursday, February 24, 2011
#32 our chance to shine!
our lives...
what are our lives all about?
what are we doing with our lives?
are we happy?
are we paying attention?
are we grateful for all the little things?...and the big things?
what is this living thing all about?
a fellow surfer died a few days ago
DAVID KEETIN
what?
he was not old...he was a dad...a surfer
he planned the black surfing associations annual mexico surf trips
he was bright...positive...happy
he loved surfing!
they found stage 4 lung cancer
weeks later...he's gone
what?
it happens i know
but
what?
i am not old...i am a dad...a surfer
i help plan the annual black surfer campout in big sur
i am bright...positive...happy
i love surfing!
???
this is our moment
this breathe
this glance
this thought
this is our life
let us live it
fully
be here!
now
this is the time
our chance to shine!
what are our lives all about?
what are we doing with our lives?
are we happy?
are we paying attention?
are we grateful for all the little things?...and the big things?
what is this living thing all about?
a fellow surfer died a few days ago
DAVID KEETIN
what?
he was not old...he was a dad...a surfer
he planned the black surfing associations annual mexico surf trips
he was bright...positive...happy
he loved surfing!
they found stage 4 lung cancer
weeks later...he's gone
what?
it happens i know
but
what?
i am not old...i am a dad...a surfer
i help plan the annual black surfer campout in big sur
i am bright...positive...happy
i love surfing!
???
this is our moment
this breathe
this glance
this thought
this is our life
let us live it
fully
be here!
now
this is the time
our chance to shine!
#33 A Chance Encounter...
This actually took place back in June of 2010. While browsing in our local used bookstore I was catching this vibe that I was being watched while I flipped the pages of Surfer's Journal. Trippy how you can feel that stuff! Well, not really that trippy since we are all way more powerfully aware than we think we are! Okay, okay it is trippy! Anyway, as I left the store I heard a voice say "Hey!". In denial of my awareness(or maybe just testing it) I let the call fall unaddressed. And then I heard the call again; this time with more determination behind it. I turned to see a friendly guy to whom I immediately felt a connection.
He asked if I was a surfer and introduced himself as Santiago a surfer/journalist from Argentina. He asked if he could interview me for his blog. He was representing Wave Tribe...the first ALL GREEN SURF COMPANY. Of course, I was eager to participate so we exchanged info and hooked up at my place a few days later.
[CLICK HERE TO READ INTERVIEW]
How do these 'chance' encounters occur? Are they chance? The fact is that for the a few months leading up to that moment I had been putting a lot of thought into the idea of a future as an "International Humanitarian Surf Ambassador". I never defined exactly what that was, but it feels and sounds right. I actually still don't know exactly what that is, but I am going to put it out there and stay open to the next 'chance' encounter.
Like when I met Danny Hess. My wife and I were on our honeymoon in Costa Rica back in 2004. It was 3 weeks of backpacking around with no particular plans other than to visit the east and west coasts. Oh, and I did have my surfboard so getting some waves was on the agenda : ) We ended up meeting this Canadian couple on the east coast who got us all fired up to join them on a quick jump across the border into Panama to check out Bocas Del Toro island.
When boarding the bus, there was a surfer struggling to get his massive board bag into the baggage area under the bus. I helped him stuff it in there without many words and we boarded the bus. On the Panama side of the boarder we all split up as the hoard of taxi drivers compelled us in different directions. There were two different ferries to the island; we ended up on the same one. He and his wife Erin at the back and us in the front. Still, not even knowing each others names I sent back our camera to him to snap a photo of our honeymoon ferry ride.
Alisa was deeply invested in sampling as much Central American coffee as humanly possible, so we hit the cafe immediately upon landing on the island. The decor was a combination botanical garden meets shipwreck heirlooms, meets surfboard graveyard. I don't know why the light bulb hadn't turned on previously, but this island had waves! Good waves!
Once her caffeine kicked in we were off to find the most lounging accommodation possible. On our 4th stop we came upon this neat little hotel, it only had 4 rooms on the second level for guests. Two rooms faced inland which was cool enough since it is still a tropical island. Aaahh, but the front two rooms shared a huge balcony with hammocks and lounge chairs and had an across-the-street view of the ocean! We picked a room on the front : )
The owning family lived in half of the downstairs. The other half was an open air lounge area great for watching passersby....and for feeling the breeze when the warm afternoon rains would blow down the street.
And if this wasn't excellent enough for our week long stay....luck..chance..fate gifted us with hometown San Francisco locals Danny and Erin Hess as balcony neighbors!
It was there that I was first introduced to the his magic wooden boards. It was love at first sight! I can still remember when I first viewed it in the hallway. It was like an apparition. I could not believe what I was seeing. It was the most gorgeous surfboard I had ever seen. And then when the forever humble Danny said that he made it I was floored. It was shortly after that I made my 10 centavos down payment for my first board!
We had a blast surfing down there. Early morning walks through the sleeping town to a lonely pier waiting for an early bird ponga driver to shuttle us to the surf. Or the epic single-track muddy hike over a neighboring island to a beautiful beach break with our wives. Or watching the local kids bust 360 airs while gold chains dangled from their neck. And dare I forget the evening munching of the mysterious orange and delicious burgers that would bless our palates on rare evenings.
How is it that thousands of miles from home I meet this guy who lives less than 5 miles away at just the right time to have a surf adventure? Chance?
I believe, life is more powerful than chance.
Our connections with those around us, near or far, are stronger than chance.
There is an organized unfolding of existence.
And if we pay attention....sometimes we are fortunate enough to glimpse behind the curtain!
He asked if I was a surfer and introduced himself as Santiago a surfer/journalist from Argentina. He asked if he could interview me for his blog. He was representing Wave Tribe...the first ALL GREEN SURF COMPANY. Of course, I was eager to participate so we exchanged info and hooked up at my place a few days later.
[CLICK HERE TO READ INTERVIEW]
How do these 'chance' encounters occur? Are they chance? The fact is that for the a few months leading up to that moment I had been putting a lot of thought into the idea of a future as an "International Humanitarian Surf Ambassador". I never defined exactly what that was, but it feels and sounds right. I actually still don't know exactly what that is, but I am going to put it out there and stay open to the next 'chance' encounter.
Like when I met Danny Hess. My wife and I were on our honeymoon in Costa Rica back in 2004. It was 3 weeks of backpacking around with no particular plans other than to visit the east and west coasts. Oh, and I did have my surfboard so getting some waves was on the agenda : ) We ended up meeting this Canadian couple on the east coast who got us all fired up to join them on a quick jump across the border into Panama to check out Bocas Del Toro island.
When boarding the bus, there was a surfer struggling to get his massive board bag into the baggage area under the bus. I helped him stuff it in there without many words and we boarded the bus. On the Panama side of the boarder we all split up as the hoard of taxi drivers compelled us in different directions. There were two different ferries to the island; we ended up on the same one. He and his wife Erin at the back and us in the front. Still, not even knowing each others names I sent back our camera to him to snap a photo of our honeymoon ferry ride.
Alisa was deeply invested in sampling as much Central American coffee as humanly possible, so we hit the cafe immediately upon landing on the island. The decor was a combination botanical garden meets shipwreck heirlooms, meets surfboard graveyard. I don't know why the light bulb hadn't turned on previously, but this island had waves! Good waves!
Once her caffeine kicked in we were off to find the most lounging accommodation possible. On our 4th stop we came upon this neat little hotel, it only had 4 rooms on the second level for guests. Two rooms faced inland which was cool enough since it is still a tropical island. Aaahh, but the front two rooms shared a huge balcony with hammocks and lounge chairs and had an across-the-street view of the ocean! We picked a room on the front : )
The owning family lived in half of the downstairs. The other half was an open air lounge area great for watching passersby....and for feeling the breeze when the warm afternoon rains would blow down the street.
And if this wasn't excellent enough for our week long stay....luck..chance..fate gifted us with hometown San Francisco locals Danny and Erin Hess as balcony neighbors!
It was there that I was first introduced to the his magic wooden boards. It was love at first sight! I can still remember when I first viewed it in the hallway. It was like an apparition. I could not believe what I was seeing. It was the most gorgeous surfboard I had ever seen. And then when the forever humble Danny said that he made it I was floored. It was shortly after that I made my 10 centavos down payment for my first board!
We had a blast surfing down there. Early morning walks through the sleeping town to a lonely pier waiting for an early bird ponga driver to shuttle us to the surf. Or the epic single-track muddy hike over a neighboring island to a beautiful beach break with our wives. Or watching the local kids bust 360 airs while gold chains dangled from their neck. And dare I forget the evening munching of the mysterious orange and delicious burgers that would bless our palates on rare evenings.
How is it that thousands of miles from home I meet this guy who lives less than 5 miles away at just the right time to have a surf adventure? Chance?
I believe, life is more powerful than chance.
Our connections with those around us, near or far, are stronger than chance.
There is an organized unfolding of existence.
And if we pay attention....sometimes we are fortunate enough to glimpse behind the curtain!
Friday, February 18, 2011
#31 La Manzana Grande
My wife and I got to spend a couple days in La Manzana Grande over the over the holidays. And lucky for us it was the exact time that the blizzard hit the east coast. The snow started to fall late morning as we rode the bus into town from my folks place in Jersey....and then it didn't stop! We didn't get up to our usual antics in the city, but instead had a snow-filled adventure!
Caught this wave on a late night walk...
Got inspired to do some blizzard surf art...
Caught this wave on a late night walk...
Got inspired to do some blizzard surf art...
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
#30 yet another BALANCE BOARD
This is one of my latest homemade budget~friendly toys.
I am 6'2" with super long limbs and short torso so my center of gravity is high.
Not good for surfing!
I use this thing train myself to be able to squat lower and for longer.
Advice I got from tall shredder Danny Hess.
It is definitely working.
It is surprising how difficult it is to reprogram muscle memory,however.
Once I get in the water the usual patterns of standing erect for balance show up.
Still, I'll find myself in positions and places on the wave that I've never experienced all because of the increased strength and stability in a lower position relative to the board.
Surfing is freakin' fun!
I am 6'2" with super long limbs and short torso so my center of gravity is high.
Not good for surfing!
I use this thing train myself to be able to squat lower and for longer.
Advice I got from tall shredder Danny Hess.
It is definitely working.
It is surprising how difficult it is to reprogram muscle memory,however.
Once I get in the water the usual patterns of standing erect for balance show up.
Still, I'll find myself in positions and places on the wave that I've never experienced all because of the increased strength and stability in a lower position relative to the board.
Surfing is freakin' fun!
Sunday, February 13, 2011
#29 Photo Opp'
Back for some bodysurfing
Having a squat while I sort where to jump in
Nice guy with an old school camera wanted to snap off a photo...
Having a squat while I sort where to jump in
Nice guy with an old school camera wanted to snap off a photo...
Thursday, February 03, 2011
#28 Always going off!
It is all about having the fins in the back of the car at all times.
Over the last couple years or so my passion for bodysurfing has skyrocketed. The spring/summer here offer up some notoriously windy and junky conditions. It's the kind of conditions that hurt your feelings just to see them. It can honestly be depressing to stare out over a mangled ocean while the gusty onshore wind splatters your face with salty water. That is....if you have not adopted bodysurfing into your surf repertoire!
The magic of Ocean Beach is that even though the wind may play destroyer to the nice wave quality there is usually still some swell energy out there. This is where the fins come in!
I'll look out at the criss-crossed, turbulent, victory-at-sea conditions and I'll see it....a closeout barrel! Boom! That's all it takes.....the wetsuit comes on, the ear plugs go in and with fins in hand I race down to the waters edge to stretch, don the fins, give thanks and jump in!
What a rush to be diving under the waves...feeling every swirl and undulation as the water pushes, pulls, holds and releases me. I have this sense of vulnerability and power as I navigate on the edge of this incomprehensible massive body of water. The coldness and darkness of the water adds to the mystery and excitement. And on most of these less-than-pleasant-for-most conditions I will be the only one in the water. The experience transcends surfing in a way. There's a pureness....a simplicity about it that resonates to the core of my being.
And with all these 'feelings' going on I still search out the longest ride and biggest barrel I can muster. I have gone so fast on a couple that I felt like a helpless pebble being skipped by a child. I have had more tube time than ever before in my life. I have also been scared out of my gourd when the rough conditions proved to be too rough. As a bonus prize it turns out to be amazing exercise. When I return to my surfboard it feels like a retreat.
I have learned a lot about the wave by bodysurfing. There is more intimacy and awareness with my body submerged into the energy source. I learned from the legendary Ocean Beach bodysurfer, Judith Sheridan, about the pocket of energy inside the wave & how to submerge myself into the wave just as it crests for no paddle take-off's. This has been a trippy experience because on a couple attempts I was launched out with so much force that I was sent flying to the trough of the wave...like being shot out of a cannon! I've also been learning about the barrel. On a surfboard I am not an experienced tube rider. I've had some in & outs, but nowhere near as many as I need! This has allowed me to get more comfortable being inside the barrel and experiencing how much space is in there so that I can translate this onto my board riding experience.
The best part of all of this is that now when I go the beach -- It's always going off!
Friday, January 29, 2010
#27 there was an air of gratitude
it was a neat day at OB.
the sand was pushed high up against the breakwall from the big surf.
there was a 20-foot margin of driftwood and debris near the wall
the negative tide left an expansive beach that was unusually rich with iron making OB a black sand beach
people were wandering the beach with a curiosity that made me think of post-hurricane explorations where you are glad to be out of the house and very interested in how things have changed.
saw a bunch of groups of people sifting through the driftwood and taking pieces.
i saw no wildlife...no pelicans...no sea lions...no dolphins
there were surfers everywhere...putting on suits...taking off suits.
none of them walked to the waves...every surfer ran to the water
the waves were waist to chest high...clean...and down the line
i resisted the side-shore current and enjoyed a bounty all to myself
there was an air of gratitude
the sand was pushed high up against the breakwall from the big surf.
there was a 20-foot margin of driftwood and debris near the wall
the negative tide left an expansive beach that was unusually rich with iron making OB a black sand beach
people were wandering the beach with a curiosity that made me think of post-hurricane explorations where you are glad to be out of the house and very interested in how things have changed.
saw a bunch of groups of people sifting through the driftwood and taking pieces.
i saw no wildlife...no pelicans...no sea lions...no dolphins
there were surfers everywhere...putting on suits...taking off suits.
none of them walked to the waves...every surfer ran to the water
the waves were waist to chest high...clean...and down the line
i resisted the side-shore current and enjoyed a bounty all to myself
there was an air of gratitude
Monday, November 09, 2009
#26 Moonlight Session
A couple full moons back I woke up a couple hours before dawn while my family lay comfortably in their dreams. I woke to live a dream. Making my way quietly down the stairwell to the lonely street I threw all of my gear in the car and navigated the concrete jungle to the untamed waters of Ocean Beach.
There, in the embrace of darkness I slithered into the black rubber suit making myself one with the night. With only my face and hands exposed I grabbed my surfboard and trekked across the low-tide big beach to the sparkling black sea. Tiny crystals of moonlight danced on every ripple.
The impaired vision of the darkness heightened all my senses. I was most amazed by my sense of touch. Walking into the water I was aware of the embrace of the ocean like never before. Every push, pull and swirl seem to hold me and welcome me. I felt safe. I felt truly connected to the ocean.
The moon was getting low providing a moonbeam trail through the surf. Following it over the black rolling water into into the vastness felt like a sacred act. I had to trust myself and the ocean in a different way. I actually surfed one other moonlight session 12 years earlier on Nias Island, Indonesia. I had just learned to surf and did not have the confidence to be able to relax in the dark right-handers peeling through. On this night I was able to just allow myself to be present for the experience and it was wonderful beyond my ability to express.
I've been struggling with this entry for just that reason. All l know is that my connection with the ocean changed that night. Paddling alone into those cold, dark waters was a spiritual awakening. I felt uplifted...high...for days after.
In retrospect, I realized that no fear ever arose during the experience, though I did get startled a couple times. Ocean Beaches true residents, the sea lions, had to come a lot closer to satisfy their curiosity. Instead of the usual ten to fifteen foot away I had two big guys pop up two feet away just to get a good look.
I highly encourage anyone who reads this to paddle out in the moonlight....at least once! Another hidden bonus is that I had the waves all to myself. As the sun made her appearance and guys began paddling out I headed back to the beach grinning from ear to ear!
There, in the embrace of darkness I slithered into the black rubber suit making myself one with the night. With only my face and hands exposed I grabbed my surfboard and trekked across the low-tide big beach to the sparkling black sea. Tiny crystals of moonlight danced on every ripple.
The impaired vision of the darkness heightened all my senses. I was most amazed by my sense of touch. Walking into the water I was aware of the embrace of the ocean like never before. Every push, pull and swirl seem to hold me and welcome me. I felt safe. I felt truly connected to the ocean.
The moon was getting low providing a moonbeam trail through the surf. Following it over the black rolling water into into the vastness felt like a sacred act. I had to trust myself and the ocean in a different way. I actually surfed one other moonlight session 12 years earlier on Nias Island, Indonesia. I had just learned to surf and did not have the confidence to be able to relax in the dark right-handers peeling through. On this night I was able to just allow myself to be present for the experience and it was wonderful beyond my ability to express.
I've been struggling with this entry for just that reason. All l know is that my connection with the ocean changed that night. Paddling alone into those cold, dark waters was a spiritual awakening. I felt uplifted...high...for days after.
In retrospect, I realized that no fear ever arose during the experience, though I did get startled a couple times. Ocean Beaches true residents, the sea lions, had to come a lot closer to satisfy their curiosity. Instead of the usual ten to fifteen foot away I had two big guys pop up two feet away just to get a good look.
I highly encourage anyone who reads this to paddle out in the moonlight....at least once! Another hidden bonus is that I had the waves all to myself. As the sun made her appearance and guys began paddling out I headed back to the beach grinning from ear to ear!
Monday, August 31, 2009
#25 Love Defined
Okay, the other day I was doing my thing working on the computer as I do to pay the bills. I was due to get off in 15-minutes at 3:00. I had planned on playing with the groms in the afternoon before the official dinner/bath/bedtime routine was due to commence. My wife had to teach a pilates at 6:00 so I was on the solo creep. No complaints I definitely have a house-dad mentality. Just then as I was contemplating my afternoon the phone rang...it was my wife who was chillin' at her friends house for a bit.
She says, "You're almost off right?! I heard the waves are good...you should go surf! I'll be home in a few minutes!"
That's love y'all!
She came home. I charged it to the beach. It was sizey, fairly clean, but a bit fat on the outside due to the tide. I opted to grab my fins to bodysurf the inside. I had some fun, heaving barrels!!!
My wife really stoked me out with that gesture. For all of you other surfers out there I am sending you good vibes that the people in your lives recognize the positive influence surfing has on your life and supports your desire/need to get in the water! And for you non-surfers...thanks for the understanding!
She says, "You're almost off right?! I heard the waves are good...you should go surf! I'll be home in a few minutes!"
That's love y'all!
She came home. I charged it to the beach. It was sizey, fairly clean, but a bit fat on the outside due to the tide. I opted to grab my fins to bodysurf the inside. I had some fun, heaving barrels!!!
My wife really stoked me out with that gesture. For all of you other surfers out there I am sending you good vibes that the people in your lives recognize the positive influence surfing has on your life and supports your desire/need to get in the water! And for you non-surfers...thanks for the understanding!
Thursday, August 27, 2009
#24 Passing it on...
I am a surfer, obviously. Surfing...the ocean...the sand...the sun...the sea creatures are an intimate part of who I am. Really we're all ONE thing but that's not the subject for today. I grew up in southern California by the beach. The beach became my definition of fun. My folks would take my Sister and I to the beach when we were young to play in the sand and explore the tide pools. A couple times a year my folks would have beach cookouts with their friends and my sister and I would bring our little crew along. Those were always special times because now not only did we have the beach, but we had a whole camp full of scrumptious food! My mom is an exquisite chef by hobby & her best friend is a exquisite chef by profession....I'm talking seafood smorgasbord! In junior high/high school my Friends and I would get ourselves to the beach to ride the waves, snorkel or just hang out in the sand. Going to the beach was always guaranteed to grant us a good time!
I am so thankful for my parents relocating our family from Ossining, NY to SoCal when I was 5. And I am thankful for all the beach time they granted me. I really owe my love of the ocean to them. Even though my Dad rarely went into the water and my Mom cannot swim they introduced me to beach. Once the relationship developed I explored it in different ways...
Now I am a father of two and, lo and behold, I take the girls to the beach ALL the time. The ocean has given me so much that I would love to pass on that gift for them to explore as they see fit.
And with that generosity of spirit in mind it gave me so much pleasure to watch as my 4 year old daughter eagerly & joyfully scraped all the old wax off my surfboard : )
I am so thankful for my parents relocating our family from Ossining, NY to SoCal when I was 5. And I am thankful for all the beach time they granted me. I really owe my love of the ocean to them. Even though my Dad rarely went into the water and my Mom cannot swim they introduced me to beach. Once the relationship developed I explored it in different ways...
Now I am a father of two and, lo and behold, I take the girls to the beach ALL the time. The ocean has given me so much that I would love to pass on that gift for them to explore as they see fit.
And with that generosity of spirit in mind it gave me so much pleasure to watch as my 4 year old daughter eagerly & joyfully scraped all the old wax off my surfboard : )
Wednesday, March 04, 2009
#23 AQUA Surf Shop: Aaahhh, The Good Ol' Days
I can remember being 12 and my Dad taking me to the surf shop back in Carlsbad...WITT'S CARLSBAD PIPELINE! That was the spot. Going there became a ritual. Dad would patiently post up in the corner somewhere while I wandered, wide-eyed amongst the surf gear. Although I did want stuff and did buy tons of stuff over time, usually I would just be content to browse. It was like going to a museum. I would study the gear, caress the gear, hold the gear and when something was exceptional I would call to my Dad so that he too would be educated on the latest and greatest.
Witt was usually behind the counter and he would happily show me anything he saw me staring at. There was never a feeling of having to buy anything or having to rush out. It was a place to kick back. There would always be other surfers, big or small, just like me wandering around the shop.
On the occasions, of which there many, that I would acquire some goods Witt, or whoever was behind the counter, would always throw in a bar of wax or a sticker! I'm talking ALWAYS! Sometimes Witt would throw me a sticker after just browsing. As far as I knew that was just how surf shops worked. It was awesome! To this day, the Witt's logo is my favorite!
These memories came flooding back to me after a recent experience at AQUA SURF SHOP. I don't browse as much these days; I went in there to grab a new winter wetsuit. I knew exactly what I wanted, tried it on and was done. After purchasing it the owner Aleks just threw in 4 bars of wax!!!
In a flash, I was feeling that joy like that 12 year old kid again! In terms of monetary value the wax is worth pittance but to bring back the stoke of childhood is priceless! Thanks Aleks for keeping the old school alive!
Witt was usually behind the counter and he would happily show me anything he saw me staring at. There was never a feeling of having to buy anything or having to rush out. It was a place to kick back. There would always be other surfers, big or small, just like me wandering around the shop.
On the occasions, of which there many, that I would acquire some goods Witt, or whoever was behind the counter, would always throw in a bar of wax or a sticker! I'm talking ALWAYS! Sometimes Witt would throw me a sticker after just browsing. As far as I knew that was just how surf shops worked. It was awesome! To this day, the Witt's logo is my favorite!
These memories came flooding back to me after a recent experience at AQUA SURF SHOP. I don't browse as much these days; I went in there to grab a new winter wetsuit. I knew exactly what I wanted, tried it on and was done. After purchasing it the owner Aleks just threw in 4 bars of wax!!!
In a flash, I was feeling that joy like that 12 year old kid again! In terms of monetary value the wax is worth pittance but to bring back the stoke of childhood is priceless! Thanks Aleks for keeping the old school alive!
Friday, December 12, 2008
#22 Brain Saver!
A few years back….wow, it’s actually been 12 years….when I was on my endless summer surf mission out in the wide open world I spent some time in Australia. DB and I were posted up in the crayfishing town of Dongara about 300 km north of Perth. We just happened upon the place.
Having been out of the States for about 10-months when we landed in Oz our goal was to get a job and rebuild the savings. That way we could live carefree in New Zealand for the next leg of the adventure….it worked! We were at a hostel in Perth putting some feelers out for only a couple dayz when I overheard this dude talking about some farm he knew of up the coast that needed people to pick zucchini. Perfect!
I got the info and called right away from a payphone in the parking lot. Richie answered with his soon to become familiar, friendly voice and said he owned a hostel in Dongara and that he would hook us up with the zucchini job. And just like that it was on….a couple days in the country and we had a job and a place to stay.
That’s the joy of traveling. You are forced to pay attention to your surroundings and be open to people which creates opportunity after opportunity. In our daily lives it is easy to run on auto-pilot and miss all of the gifts.
So the next day we jumped on a bus and headed up the coast. Richie met us at the bus station with his Landcruiser and what do you know…..he’s got a surfboard hanging inside his truck! Now it was really ON!
We lived and worked 7 days a week for a couple months picking zucchini! Those things are low to the ground…hard work…but that’s another story. We bought a car. There was a local surf spot we hit regularly. Went out on a crayfishing boat. Worked in a sheep-shearing shed. Lots of cool stuff but the thing I’m trying to get to is my helmet!
One of the cool cats we met there was Andy. He worked 8-9 months a year as a crayfisherman. For the rest of the time he chased surf around in Indonesia. Over the years he found himself getting more comfortable in the hollow reef breaks and taking more risks in bigger surf. He reached a point where he wanted a helmet but didn’t like the bulky Gath helmets. So as any industrious Aussie would do…he made his own!
The helmet is totally custom made for the surfer. He starts by making a mold of the head and then builds the helmet around the mold. It is an exact fit. The shell is Kevlar which is basically indestructible. It is super light. After all his surfing buddies saw his he ended up making them for all of them. He actually began to support some his travels by bring the materials to Indo and making helmets for surfers.
Here’s mine on its second paint job….
This thing has been perfect for surfing Ocean Beach. The water is so cold that a lot of people wear hooded wetsuits. My helmet fits so snug that it is like a hood...with benefits...especially on the bigger days!
Having been out of the States for about 10-months when we landed in Oz our goal was to get a job and rebuild the savings. That way we could live carefree in New Zealand for the next leg of the adventure….it worked! We were at a hostel in Perth putting some feelers out for only a couple dayz when I overheard this dude talking about some farm he knew of up the coast that needed people to pick zucchini. Perfect!
I got the info and called right away from a payphone in the parking lot. Richie answered with his soon to become familiar, friendly voice and said he owned a hostel in Dongara and that he would hook us up with the zucchini job. And just like that it was on….a couple days in the country and we had a job and a place to stay.
That’s the joy of traveling. You are forced to pay attention to your surroundings and be open to people which creates opportunity after opportunity. In our daily lives it is easy to run on auto-pilot and miss all of the gifts.
So the next day we jumped on a bus and headed up the coast. Richie met us at the bus station with his Landcruiser and what do you know…..he’s got a surfboard hanging inside his truck! Now it was really ON!
We lived and worked 7 days a week for a couple months picking zucchini! Those things are low to the ground…hard work…but that’s another story. We bought a car. There was a local surf spot we hit regularly. Went out on a crayfishing boat. Worked in a sheep-shearing shed. Lots of cool stuff but the thing I’m trying to get to is my helmet!
One of the cool cats we met there was Andy. He worked 8-9 months a year as a crayfisherman. For the rest of the time he chased surf around in Indonesia. Over the years he found himself getting more comfortable in the hollow reef breaks and taking more risks in bigger surf. He reached a point where he wanted a helmet but didn’t like the bulky Gath helmets. So as any industrious Aussie would do…he made his own!
The helmet is totally custom made for the surfer. He starts by making a mold of the head and then builds the helmet around the mold. It is an exact fit. The shell is Kevlar which is basically indestructible. It is super light. After all his surfing buddies saw his he ended up making them for all of them. He actually began to support some his travels by bring the materials to Indo and making helmets for surfers.
Here’s mine on its second paint job….
This thing has been perfect for surfing Ocean Beach. The water is so cold that a lot of people wear hooded wetsuits. My helmet fits so snug that it is like a hood...with benefits...especially on the bigger days!
Friday, December 05, 2008
#21 Fortunate Fellow…
There seems to be a theme of thanks these dayz. This morning I got up early for a dawn patrol session before work. I got to the beach before the sunrise. The winds were steady offshore. The swell was a little overhead and organized. There were only a couple people out and a couple suiting up. Once in the water, the sun rose bright orange behind the mist fanning off the top of the waves. The sky awakened and another beautiful day began…
So good to be a surfer.
So good to be a surfer.
Wednesday, November 26, 2008
#20 A Few Words of Thanks...
trying to capture all the thanks i feel in this one blog is as difficult as trying to express all the love i feel for my wife and kids in a birthday card. so before i even begin i acknowledge the impossibility and accept the task of expressing a little everyday.
these last two days of surfing have been unreal! i felt like i got dropped into a surf video. ob was overhead, glassy, consistent, hollow, peeling and just plain awesome. just watching the waves come in was breathtaking. everyone was in such a good mood! it reminded me of the childhood dayz when we would hoot for each other all the time and people would always announce the sets. so fun!
as i suited up and made my way across the sand past all of the beach walkers i had this overwhelming sense of thankfulness that i knew how to surf. the ocean is such an awe inspiring, life-giving, soul-recharging, magnificent thing that to be able to play in it is an absolute honor. i owe my parents the ultimate thanks for relocating our family from inner new york to coastal sunny southern california when i was a wee lad.
thank you to my wife for understanding and supporting my love of the ocean. i am a working father of two and still get in the water multiple times a week. and when the conditions are exceptional she is cool if i let a few things slack while i savor my sanctuary.
i am also thankful for my health. ob is not an easy place to call your home-break. today, for instance, i was in the water for 2-hours. if i was riding a wave i was constantly paddling north to keep from being swept down the beach with the outgoing tide draining from the bay.
i am thankful, too, that i got to share the ocean today with one of my closest friends, db. being able to look over and see a perfect wave peeling toward you with you friend riding it is like....yes! or seeing a perfect wave forming in front of you and hearing your friend yell for you to get it is like....yes!
so, thanks to all the things that have come together to make my love of the ocean possible!
these last two days of surfing have been unreal! i felt like i got dropped into a surf video. ob was overhead, glassy, consistent, hollow, peeling and just plain awesome. just watching the waves come in was breathtaking. everyone was in such a good mood! it reminded me of the childhood dayz when we would hoot for each other all the time and people would always announce the sets. so fun!
as i suited up and made my way across the sand past all of the beach walkers i had this overwhelming sense of thankfulness that i knew how to surf. the ocean is such an awe inspiring, life-giving, soul-recharging, magnificent thing that to be able to play in it is an absolute honor. i owe my parents the ultimate thanks for relocating our family from inner new york to coastal sunny southern california when i was a wee lad.
thank you to my wife for understanding and supporting my love of the ocean. i am a working father of two and still get in the water multiple times a week. and when the conditions are exceptional she is cool if i let a few things slack while i savor my sanctuary.
i am also thankful for my health. ob is not an easy place to call your home-break. today, for instance, i was in the water for 2-hours. if i was riding a wave i was constantly paddling north to keep from being swept down the beach with the outgoing tide draining from the bay.
i am thankful, too, that i got to share the ocean today with one of my closest friends, db. being able to look over and see a perfect wave peeling toward you with you friend riding it is like....yes! or seeing a perfect wave forming in front of you and hearing your friend yell for you to get it is like....yes!
so, thanks to all the things that have come together to make my love of the ocean possible!
Monday, November 17, 2008
#19 Our President!
Yes....this is our President-Elect!!! I can't even put into words how much joy I feel to see a Black man as President.....and then for him to be a surfer, too!!! The world will never be the same.
Black children in this country(& worldwide) are going to see the world completely differently than those who came before. It has always been said that you can do whatever you put your mind to & now there is a major role model leading the country. I wish my Grandparents were alive to see this. I wish I could hear their thoughts on this. My Father, having grown up in the country of Alabama, says this is equal to him seeing an alien in his lifetime....he just NEVER thought it possible. I'm glad he was wrong : )
Where do we go from here?........i guess the answer would be: Anywhere.
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