I can remember being 12 and my Dad taking me to the surf shop back in Carlsbad...WITT'S CARLSBAD PIPELINE! That was the spot. Going there became a ritual. Dad would patiently post up in the corner somewhere while I wandered, wide-eyed amongst the surf gear. Although I did want stuff and did buy tons of stuff over time, usually I would just be content to browse. It was like going to a museum. I would study the gear, caress the gear, hold the gear and when something was exceptional I would call to my Dad so that he too would be educated on the latest and greatest.
Witt was usually behind the counter and he would happily show me anything he saw me staring at. There was never a feeling of having to buy anything or having to rush out. It was a place to kick back. There would always be other surfers, big or small, just like me wandering around the shop.
On the occasions, of which there many, that I would acquire some goods Witt, or whoever was behind the counter, would always throw in a bar of wax or a sticker! I'm talking ALWAYS! Sometimes Witt would throw me a sticker after just browsing. As far as I knew that was just how surf shops worked. It was awesome! To this day, the Witt's logo is my favorite!
These memories came flooding back to me after a recent experience at AQUA SURF SHOP. I don't browse as much these days; I went in there to grab a new winter wetsuit. I knew exactly what I wanted, tried it on and was done. After purchasing it the owner Aleks just threw in 4 bars of wax!!!
In a flash, I was feeling that joy like that 12 year old kid again! In terms of monetary value the wax is worth pittance but to bring back the stoke of childhood is priceless! Thanks Aleks for keeping the old school alive!
Wednesday, March 04, 2009
Friday, December 12, 2008
#22 Brain Saver!
A few years back….wow, it’s actually been 12 years….when I was on my endless summer surf mission out in the wide open world I spent some time in Australia. DB and I were posted up in the crayfishing town of Dongara about 300 km north of Perth. We just happened upon the place.
Having been out of the States for about 10-months when we landed in Oz our goal was to get a job and rebuild the savings. That way we could live carefree in New Zealand for the next leg of the adventure….it worked! We were at a hostel in Perth putting some feelers out for only a couple dayz when I overheard this dude talking about some farm he knew of up the coast that needed people to pick zucchini. Perfect!
I got the info and called right away from a payphone in the parking lot. Richie answered with his soon to become familiar, friendly voice and said he owned a hostel in Dongara and that he would hook us up with the zucchini job. And just like that it was on….a couple days in the country and we had a job and a place to stay.
That’s the joy of traveling. You are forced to pay attention to your surroundings and be open to people which creates opportunity after opportunity. In our daily lives it is easy to run on auto-pilot and miss all of the gifts.
So the next day we jumped on a bus and headed up the coast. Richie met us at the bus station with his Landcruiser and what do you know…..he’s got a surfboard hanging inside his truck! Now it was really ON!
We lived and worked 7 days a week for a couple months picking zucchini! Those things are low to the ground…hard work…but that’s another story. We bought a car. There was a local surf spot we hit regularly. Went out on a crayfishing boat. Worked in a sheep-shearing shed. Lots of cool stuff but the thing I’m trying to get to is my helmet!
One of the cool cats we met there was Andy. He worked 8-9 months a year as a crayfisherman. For the rest of the time he chased surf around in Indonesia. Over the years he found himself getting more comfortable in the hollow reef breaks and taking more risks in bigger surf. He reached a point where he wanted a helmet but didn’t like the bulky Gath helmets. So as any industrious Aussie would do…he made his own!
The helmet is totally custom made for the surfer. He starts by making a mold of the head and then builds the helmet around the mold. It is an exact fit. The shell is Kevlar which is basically indestructible. It is super light. After all his surfing buddies saw his he ended up making them for all of them. He actually began to support some his travels by bring the materials to Indo and making helmets for surfers.
Here’s mine on its second paint job….
This thing has been perfect for surfing Ocean Beach. The water is so cold that a lot of people wear hooded wetsuits. My helmet fits so snug that it is like a hood...with benefits...especially on the bigger days!
Having been out of the States for about 10-months when we landed in Oz our goal was to get a job and rebuild the savings. That way we could live carefree in New Zealand for the next leg of the adventure….it worked! We were at a hostel in Perth putting some feelers out for only a couple dayz when I overheard this dude talking about some farm he knew of up the coast that needed people to pick zucchini. Perfect!
I got the info and called right away from a payphone in the parking lot. Richie answered with his soon to become familiar, friendly voice and said he owned a hostel in Dongara and that he would hook us up with the zucchini job. And just like that it was on….a couple days in the country and we had a job and a place to stay.
That’s the joy of traveling. You are forced to pay attention to your surroundings and be open to people which creates opportunity after opportunity. In our daily lives it is easy to run on auto-pilot and miss all of the gifts.
So the next day we jumped on a bus and headed up the coast. Richie met us at the bus station with his Landcruiser and what do you know…..he’s got a surfboard hanging inside his truck! Now it was really ON!
We lived and worked 7 days a week for a couple months picking zucchini! Those things are low to the ground…hard work…but that’s another story. We bought a car. There was a local surf spot we hit regularly. Went out on a crayfishing boat. Worked in a sheep-shearing shed. Lots of cool stuff but the thing I’m trying to get to is my helmet!
One of the cool cats we met there was Andy. He worked 8-9 months a year as a crayfisherman. For the rest of the time he chased surf around in Indonesia. Over the years he found himself getting more comfortable in the hollow reef breaks and taking more risks in bigger surf. He reached a point where he wanted a helmet but didn’t like the bulky Gath helmets. So as any industrious Aussie would do…he made his own!
The helmet is totally custom made for the surfer. He starts by making a mold of the head and then builds the helmet around the mold. It is an exact fit. The shell is Kevlar which is basically indestructible. It is super light. After all his surfing buddies saw his he ended up making them for all of them. He actually began to support some his travels by bring the materials to Indo and making helmets for surfers.
Here’s mine on its second paint job….
This thing has been perfect for surfing Ocean Beach. The water is so cold that a lot of people wear hooded wetsuits. My helmet fits so snug that it is like a hood...with benefits...especially on the bigger days!
Friday, December 05, 2008
#21 Fortunate Fellow…
There seems to be a theme of thanks these dayz. This morning I got up early for a dawn patrol session before work. I got to the beach before the sunrise. The winds were steady offshore. The swell was a little overhead and organized. There were only a couple people out and a couple suiting up. Once in the water, the sun rose bright orange behind the mist fanning off the top of the waves. The sky awakened and another beautiful day began…
So good to be a surfer.
So good to be a surfer.
Wednesday, November 26, 2008
#20 A Few Words of Thanks...
trying to capture all the thanks i feel in this one blog is as difficult as trying to express all the love i feel for my wife and kids in a birthday card. so before i even begin i acknowledge the impossibility and accept the task of expressing a little everyday.
these last two days of surfing have been unreal! i felt like i got dropped into a surf video. ob was overhead, glassy, consistent, hollow, peeling and just plain awesome. just watching the waves come in was breathtaking. everyone was in such a good mood! it reminded me of the childhood dayz when we would hoot for each other all the time and people would always announce the sets. so fun!
as i suited up and made my way across the sand past all of the beach walkers i had this overwhelming sense of thankfulness that i knew how to surf. the ocean is such an awe inspiring, life-giving, soul-recharging, magnificent thing that to be able to play in it is an absolute honor. i owe my parents the ultimate thanks for relocating our family from inner new york to coastal sunny southern california when i was a wee lad.
thank you to my wife for understanding and supporting my love of the ocean. i am a working father of two and still get in the water multiple times a week. and when the conditions are exceptional she is cool if i let a few things slack while i savor my sanctuary.
i am also thankful for my health. ob is not an easy place to call your home-break. today, for instance, i was in the water for 2-hours. if i was riding a wave i was constantly paddling north to keep from being swept down the beach with the outgoing tide draining from the bay.
i am thankful, too, that i got to share the ocean today with one of my closest friends, db. being able to look over and see a perfect wave peeling toward you with you friend riding it is like....yes! or seeing a perfect wave forming in front of you and hearing your friend yell for you to get it is like....yes!
so, thanks to all the things that have come together to make my love of the ocean possible!
these last two days of surfing have been unreal! i felt like i got dropped into a surf video. ob was overhead, glassy, consistent, hollow, peeling and just plain awesome. just watching the waves come in was breathtaking. everyone was in such a good mood! it reminded me of the childhood dayz when we would hoot for each other all the time and people would always announce the sets. so fun!
as i suited up and made my way across the sand past all of the beach walkers i had this overwhelming sense of thankfulness that i knew how to surf. the ocean is such an awe inspiring, life-giving, soul-recharging, magnificent thing that to be able to play in it is an absolute honor. i owe my parents the ultimate thanks for relocating our family from inner new york to coastal sunny southern california when i was a wee lad.
thank you to my wife for understanding and supporting my love of the ocean. i am a working father of two and still get in the water multiple times a week. and when the conditions are exceptional she is cool if i let a few things slack while i savor my sanctuary.
i am also thankful for my health. ob is not an easy place to call your home-break. today, for instance, i was in the water for 2-hours. if i was riding a wave i was constantly paddling north to keep from being swept down the beach with the outgoing tide draining from the bay.
i am thankful, too, that i got to share the ocean today with one of my closest friends, db. being able to look over and see a perfect wave peeling toward you with you friend riding it is like....yes! or seeing a perfect wave forming in front of you and hearing your friend yell for you to get it is like....yes!
so, thanks to all the things that have come together to make my love of the ocean possible!
Monday, November 17, 2008
#19 Our President!
Yes....this is our President-Elect!!! I can't even put into words how much joy I feel to see a Black man as President.....and then for him to be a surfer, too!!! The world will never be the same.
Black children in this country(& worldwide) are going to see the world completely differently than those who came before. It has always been said that you can do whatever you put your mind to & now there is a major role model leading the country. I wish my Grandparents were alive to see this. I wish I could hear their thoughts on this. My Father, having grown up in the country of Alabama, says this is equal to him seeing an alien in his lifetime....he just NEVER thought it possible. I'm glad he was wrong : )
Where do we go from here?........i guess the answer would be: Anywhere.
Wednesday, September 03, 2008
#18 Summer In San Francisco!
This is just a quick note of thanks and welcome to the arrival of Summer-in-San Francisco!!!
I looked off my back deck to see the flags blowing OFFSHORE for the first time in months signaling the beginning of our surf season in deez here parts. The sky was blue, the air was hot! And by golly, there was swell in the water!
To celebrate i spent most of the day at the beach! First i rounded up my little ones and we had a cross-town adventure riding the street train out to the beach. Watching my 3 year old daughter rolling down the sand dunes and thrashing in the water was a treat to my soul. And seeing my 9-month old daughter discover the joys of burying her feet in the warm sand was all that a beach loving dad could ask for......well almost...
After returning home and getting them down for a nap i had to jump in the car and head right back out to the beach so i could do a little celebrating of my own in water! The surf wasn't epic but it was fun and it was an honor to be out on this first offshore day of Summer-in-the-Bay!
I looked off my back deck to see the flags blowing OFFSHORE for the first time in months signaling the beginning of our surf season in deez here parts. The sky was blue, the air was hot! And by golly, there was swell in the water!
To celebrate i spent most of the day at the beach! First i rounded up my little ones and we had a cross-town adventure riding the street train out to the beach. Watching my 3 year old daughter rolling down the sand dunes and thrashing in the water was a treat to my soul. And seeing my 9-month old daughter discover the joys of burying her feet in the warm sand was all that a beach loving dad could ask for......well almost...
After returning home and getting them down for a nap i had to jump in the car and head right back out to the beach so i could do a little celebrating of my own in water! The surf wasn't epic but it was fun and it was an honor to be out on this first offshore day of Summer-in-the-Bay!
Wednesday, July 02, 2008
#17.5 Photies from the Archives…
I was doing that thing many of us tend to do…clean out stuff. I was flipping through some photos and these popped up and what the heck…here they are….
The Place: Upstate New Jersey
The time: 1995
After growing up near the beach in California my parents relocated to woodsy upstate Jersey. I had just finished college in Santa Barbara and wasn’t really getting into much. Working 20 hours a week at Olive Garden, bodyboarding, bird-watching and not much else. I had just separated with my long time girlfriend and my folks bought a big house so I moved in.
The photo was staged in our backyard for my cali’ crew to show them how I was holding it down on the east coast….psych! In the 2 years that I lived there I only made it to the coast 5 times. 3 of the times were to play in beach volleyball tournaments, which became my favorite east coast pastime. The other 2 times I made the 3-hour drive in the early dark of morning just to see the sun rise over the ocean!
The Place: Durban, South Africa
The Time: December 1996
This is where is first learned to ride a surfboard. It was the beginning our 18-month backpack/surf trip around the world. The trip was epic, in part because we got all of the drama out on our first day of surfing.
My friend Danny instantly got the job of surf tour guide at the hostel where we were staying. And I became the hostel manager. Among the many perks of our positions were access to the hostel tour van!!! So we did what any surfer would do…we took it surfing.
Over-indulging in the van space Danny took 2 boards. I brought way too much money and my hearty traveling clothes. We parked at a common surf spot in Durban across the street from a military base. The surf was fun, as it always was in Durban….too fun for someone who could barely sit on his board at the time! : ) After the session we came back to climb in our ride only to find an empty parking space…of course!
Turns out that more cars get stolen in Durban and Johannesburg than anywhere in the world….who knew?
The hostel owner was cool. The van was insured and he had wanted another one anyway. We actually saw the van being driven around town on a number of occasions during our stay. The thieves had done an ultra weak paint job and the hostel logo could still clearly be seen.
The event also afforded us a trip to the local police station where the police shared their favorite Playboy magazine issues with us and invited us to go play pool and get drinks. Traveling is the best!
The Place: Transkei, South Africa
The Time: Late December 1996
The Transkei is an area along the Southeast coast of South Africa. On the northern part of the area was this surf campground. This is where we spent Christmas.
The camp sits on a right point break that is common ground for many a shark. Actually the whole Transkei region is known for its high shark presence. We came prepared. Before leaving Durban a local advised us to pick up a shark-bite kit. It was basically a big needle and thread with some gauze for the tears : ) We didn’t need it.
The locals had other means of dealing with sharks. There was always one dude on shark watch. He would sit on the point and scan the waters for finned visitors. On one of the 3 days that we were there we were chillin’ in camp when we heard him yell, “Shark!” We peeked over the bluff to see all the dudes getting out of the water until the coast was clear….or clear enough. Guys paddled back out in 10-minutes! : )
The Place: Singapore
The Time: End of March, 1997
Spoiled! By this time we were 7-months into the journey. We had visited: Lesotho, South Africa, Mauritius, India, Thailand, Malaysia and were en route to Indonesia. We had a friend from college who was working in Singapore and offered to put us up for a week. Little did we know that she and her husband lived in the penthouse of some high rise! Little did she know that we were well committed to our travelers care-free nature. When she opened the door she couldn’t get past our funk to give us hugs : ) Greetings happened after our showers! That was definitely one of the best showers of my life!
Their home was ridiculous. Marble everything. State-of-the-art sound system. State-of-the-art kitchen. Fridge stocked with everything. View of everything. And they both worked during the day so we were free to run amok!
That is one neat city. Startlingly clean. The food was spectacular! It was just so organized!
Our friends opened their doors to us for a week before pre-Indo to prepare and for a week post-Indo to decompress. We were fortunate souls for their hospitality.
The photo is just clowning in their hallway.
The Place: Nias Island, Indonesia
The Time: End of May, 1997
Our last day on Nias Island. We were there for 2-months. We stayed in a lossman(bungalow) that was a stones-throw from the water…literally. We ate fresh fish everyday. We collected fantastic sea shells. We wrote. We gazed out over the ocean for extended periods. We walked empty beaches. We got up at dark and were the first ones in the water. I got malaria. We grew our hair!
This was the heart of our travels.
The picture says it all…
The Place: Big Sur, California
The Time: September 2007
This was during the Black Surfer campout we helped facilitate. It was an amazing and inspiring gathering of people. And the surf was fuuuun!
More on that later….we filmed it!
The Place: Kona, Hawaii
The Time: February 2008
Spoiled again! My folks and sister treated my whole family to a family reunion voyage to a beach house in Kona.
What can I say?…..HAWAII!!! That place is otherworldly. The people, the waves, the landscape….all beautiful! I had some of my best ocean experiences ever in the short time that we were there.
The bliss came not just from the amazing surf and warm water, but more from the vibe I got from the people in the water. There was a pure love of the ocean that radiated from all of the local surfers. The ocean meant so much to them and was such a vital part of their lives that they just glowed in its presence. It was an honor to share surf with them.
A family friend was on the spy cam with for this shot. I didn’t know she was shooting until I was walking back up the beach. I was grateful because it is so rare to get any photos of me doing this thing that means so much to me.
The Place: Upstate New Jersey
The time: 1995
After growing up near the beach in California my parents relocated to woodsy upstate Jersey. I had just finished college in Santa Barbara and wasn’t really getting into much. Working 20 hours a week at Olive Garden, bodyboarding, bird-watching and not much else. I had just separated with my long time girlfriend and my folks bought a big house so I moved in.
The photo was staged in our backyard for my cali’ crew to show them how I was holding it down on the east coast….psych! In the 2 years that I lived there I only made it to the coast 5 times. 3 of the times were to play in beach volleyball tournaments, which became my favorite east coast pastime. The other 2 times I made the 3-hour drive in the early dark of morning just to see the sun rise over the ocean!
The Place: Durban, South Africa
The Time: December 1996
This is where is first learned to ride a surfboard. It was the beginning our 18-month backpack/surf trip around the world. The trip was epic, in part because we got all of the drama out on our first day of surfing.
My friend Danny instantly got the job of surf tour guide at the hostel where we were staying. And I became the hostel manager. Among the many perks of our positions were access to the hostel tour van!!! So we did what any surfer would do…we took it surfing.
Over-indulging in the van space Danny took 2 boards. I brought way too much money and my hearty traveling clothes. We parked at a common surf spot in Durban across the street from a military base. The surf was fun, as it always was in Durban….too fun for someone who could barely sit on his board at the time! : ) After the session we came back to climb in our ride only to find an empty parking space…of course!
Turns out that more cars get stolen in Durban and Johannesburg than anywhere in the world….who knew?
The hostel owner was cool. The van was insured and he had wanted another one anyway. We actually saw the van being driven around town on a number of occasions during our stay. The thieves had done an ultra weak paint job and the hostel logo could still clearly be seen.
The event also afforded us a trip to the local police station where the police shared their favorite Playboy magazine issues with us and invited us to go play pool and get drinks. Traveling is the best!
The Place: Transkei, South Africa
The Time: Late December 1996
The Transkei is an area along the Southeast coast of South Africa. On the northern part of the area was this surf campground. This is where we spent Christmas.
The camp sits on a right point break that is common ground for many a shark. Actually the whole Transkei region is known for its high shark presence. We came prepared. Before leaving Durban a local advised us to pick up a shark-bite kit. It was basically a big needle and thread with some gauze for the tears : ) We didn’t need it.
The locals had other means of dealing with sharks. There was always one dude on shark watch. He would sit on the point and scan the waters for finned visitors. On one of the 3 days that we were there we were chillin’ in camp when we heard him yell, “Shark!” We peeked over the bluff to see all the dudes getting out of the water until the coast was clear….or clear enough. Guys paddled back out in 10-minutes! : )
The Place: Singapore
The Time: End of March, 1997
Spoiled! By this time we were 7-months into the journey. We had visited: Lesotho, South Africa, Mauritius, India, Thailand, Malaysia and were en route to Indonesia. We had a friend from college who was working in Singapore and offered to put us up for a week. Little did we know that she and her husband lived in the penthouse of some high rise! Little did she know that we were well committed to our travelers care-free nature. When she opened the door she couldn’t get past our funk to give us hugs : ) Greetings happened after our showers! That was definitely one of the best showers of my life!
Their home was ridiculous. Marble everything. State-of-the-art sound system. State-of-the-art kitchen. Fridge stocked with everything. View of everything. And they both worked during the day so we were free to run amok!
That is one neat city. Startlingly clean. The food was spectacular! It was just so organized!
Our friends opened their doors to us for a week before pre-Indo to prepare and for a week post-Indo to decompress. We were fortunate souls for their hospitality.
The photo is just clowning in their hallway.
The Place: Nias Island, Indonesia
The Time: End of May, 1997
Our last day on Nias Island. We were there for 2-months. We stayed in a lossman(bungalow) that was a stones-throw from the water…literally. We ate fresh fish everyday. We collected fantastic sea shells. We wrote. We gazed out over the ocean for extended periods. We walked empty beaches. We got up at dark and were the first ones in the water. I got malaria. We grew our hair!
This was the heart of our travels.
The picture says it all…
The Place: Big Sur, California
The Time: September 2007
This was during the Black Surfer campout we helped facilitate. It was an amazing and inspiring gathering of people. And the surf was fuuuun!
More on that later….we filmed it!
The Place: Kona, Hawaii
The Time: February 2008
Spoiled again! My folks and sister treated my whole family to a family reunion voyage to a beach house in Kona.
What can I say?…..HAWAII!!! That place is otherworldly. The people, the waves, the landscape….all beautiful! I had some of my best ocean experiences ever in the short time that we were there.
The bliss came not just from the amazing surf and warm water, but more from the vibe I got from the people in the water. There was a pure love of the ocean that radiated from all of the local surfers. The ocean meant so much to them and was such a vital part of their lives that they just glowed in its presence. It was an honor to share surf with them.
A family friend was on the spy cam with for this shot. I didn’t know she was shooting until I was walking back up the beach. I was grateful because it is so rare to get any photos of me doing this thing that means so much to me.
Tuesday, March 25, 2008
#17 Japanese Surfers, Mini-van, Cheetos, Cloves and Gangster Rap
During my session the other day I was thinking about my experiences as a Black Surfer. Is it necessary to make the distinction? Is there a distinction? Aren’t I just a surfer with darker skin than the popularized image of surfers? The short answer is: yes. The long answer will be covered in our documentary. But here are some medium thoughts.
As I approached my car after a fun surf there was a different car parked next to me. There was a mini-van with all of the doors open. The back had 3 surfboards and a bodyboard. Inside and around the mini-van were 4 Japanese surfers who were smoking cloves and passing around a bag of Cheetos while gangster rap echoed out into the parking lot. I found the scene fascinating….liberating….inspiring! It made me realize one of the reasons I love surfing.
That image shook up any preconceived idea I had about how we need to behave to be a part of society. Theirs was an image of free expression. They were not fitting into any idea or ideal. They were just doing their thing. And by doing so they caused me to stop for a moment and assess my own judgments. They brought me an awareness of the possibility to live life how I desire. They brought me to the moment.
Being a Black Surfer has a similar affect. I see it almost every time I paddle out. Whether it is the double-takes and paused stares I get as I suit up in the parking lot. Or the actual comments people have given me when they realize I am going surfing: “You’re going surfing? I’ve never seen a black fellow surf before.” – “Go ahead on, Brotha!” While hitchhiking with my board in South Africa back in ‘96 a local Afrikaaner stopped to pick me up. He said with wonder in his eyes, “I’ve lived in South Africa all of my life and I’ve never seen a Black Surfer! Hop in!”. I’ve had similar comments in the water. But what is more common is the attentive way all eyes are on me when I catch my first wave (and most waves thereafter). I can only speculate as to what is on people’s minds but it is clear that their minds are on full alert.
This ‘awakening’ is definitely not why I surf but it is a great side effect.
As I approached my car after a fun surf there was a different car parked next to me. There was a mini-van with all of the doors open. The back had 3 surfboards and a bodyboard. Inside and around the mini-van were 4 Japanese surfers who were smoking cloves and passing around a bag of Cheetos while gangster rap echoed out into the parking lot. I found the scene fascinating….liberating….inspiring! It made me realize one of the reasons I love surfing.
That image shook up any preconceived idea I had about how we need to behave to be a part of society. Theirs was an image of free expression. They were not fitting into any idea or ideal. They were just doing their thing. And by doing so they caused me to stop for a moment and assess my own judgments. They brought me an awareness of the possibility to live life how I desire. They brought me to the moment.
Being a Black Surfer has a similar affect. I see it almost every time I paddle out. Whether it is the double-takes and paused stares I get as I suit up in the parking lot. Or the actual comments people have given me when they realize I am going surfing: “You’re going surfing? I’ve never seen a black fellow surf before.” – “Go ahead on, Brotha!” While hitchhiking with my board in South Africa back in ‘96 a local Afrikaaner stopped to pick me up. He said with wonder in his eyes, “I’ve lived in South Africa all of my life and I’ve never seen a Black Surfer! Hop in!”. I’ve had similar comments in the water. But what is more common is the attentive way all eyes are on me when I catch my first wave (and most waves thereafter). I can only speculate as to what is on people’s minds but it is clear that their minds are on full alert.
This ‘awakening’ is definitely not why I surf but it is a great side effect.
Saturday, October 20, 2007
#16 Balance Board
Balance boards are so cool and so useful for enhancing your balance on your surfboard…..which by default will increase your balance in every activity! There are many different types out there. My wife uses a neat circular one for her practice as a pilates teacher. In acting grad school we simulated the shipwrecking thunderstorm of Shakespeare’s, The Tempest, using 10 balance boards. The most popular model in the surf world is the Indo Board.
I have been eyeing them for a long time but just couldn’t justify spending nearly $200 for a board and a log. Still, the ‘neat surf toy’ factor kept drawing me back to gaze at it when browsing the surf shop. In an effort to satisfy my curiosity I decided to McGyver my own.
The design is as straightforward as they come. It is literally a board and a cylinder. The board was simple enough: a piece of plywood thick enough to retain stiffness. The cylinder was the tricky part. It needed to be stiff enough to support my weight rolling over it without losing its shape. A roller with a flat spot or an egg shape is not so fun. I found and 8” cylinder tube but it had no structural integrity. I had to reinforce it with some support ribs. I added some stain and barefoot friendly grip tape to boost the stylie points.
The whole thing cost me about $50. This is the end result:
I love it! I can’t say definitely that it has improved my surfing but I’m sure over time it will have an effect. I can say that it is ridiculously fun!!!
I am on the verge of becoming the Father of my 2nd Daughter. I probably won’t be getting as much ocean time as we welcome the newest family member to planet earth. The balance board will help keep my sea legs. If I get really desperate I could throw on our ocean ambience cd, jump on the board, close my eyes and teleport myself to the wave of my choice around the world….
I have been eyeing them for a long time but just couldn’t justify spending nearly $200 for a board and a log. Still, the ‘neat surf toy’ factor kept drawing me back to gaze at it when browsing the surf shop. In an effort to satisfy my curiosity I decided to McGyver my own.
The design is as straightforward as they come. It is literally a board and a cylinder. The board was simple enough: a piece of plywood thick enough to retain stiffness. The cylinder was the tricky part. It needed to be stiff enough to support my weight rolling over it without losing its shape. A roller with a flat spot or an egg shape is not so fun. I found and 8” cylinder tube but it had no structural integrity. I had to reinforce it with some support ribs. I added some stain and barefoot friendly grip tape to boost the stylie points.
The whole thing cost me about $50. This is the end result:
I love it! I can’t say definitely that it has improved my surfing but I’m sure over time it will have an effect. I can say that it is ridiculously fun!!!
I am on the verge of becoming the Father of my 2nd Daughter. I probably won’t be getting as much ocean time as we welcome the newest family member to planet earth. The balance board will help keep my sea legs. If I get really desperate I could throw on our ocean ambience cd, jump on the board, close my eyes and teleport myself to the wave of my choice around the world….
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
#15 Black Surfers United
A few weeks ago I participated in my first public protest. It took place in Hollywood. The event was organized by Rhonda Harper of Inkwell Surf. We gathered to show our support for the Black teenagers on trial in Jena, Louisiana. If you haven’t heard of what is going on I strongly encourage you to ‘google it’.
I wanted to go down to show my support and it would also allow for a great opportunity to film how Black Surfers are active in the well-being of the community. In discussing the plans with Rhonda she invited me to speak at the event. My honest impulse was to find a reason to say ‘no’. Who am I to speak to the crowd? But as I searched my brain for a real reason to pass on this opportunity I found nothing. Why not speak? After all, I fit all the requirements: I am a Black Surfer, I am greatly concerned about how we treat each other & I did spend 3 years in graduate school learning how to speak : ) So I said ‘yes’.
The march took place on Sunset Boulevard in Hollywood at 6:30am. I marched with my surfboard and had the following sign taped to it:
Here is the rough sketch of my speech:
As soon as I heard about this gathering I knew I had to be a part of it. I wanted to join the community. I wanted to put on the black t-shirt and walk among other who were AWARE.
I came down here from San Francisco which is know for being one of the most ‘aware’, ‘in-the-know’ places on earth yet most people I spoke to knew absolutely nothing of the events in Jena.
We have access to all this information still most of us don’t know what is going on.
I grew up surfing. I’ve surfed all over the world. And for the last 9-months I’ve been working on a documentary about Black Surfers. Part of the impetus for the project came when I came when I realized how many people don’t know that there are any Black people who surf. This lack of awareness inspired me to tell their story. On the most basic level…I simply want to make people aware!
And that is what I believe this gathering is all about. By coming together we are saying that we are aware of what is going on in the community. Our coming together will bring awareness to others.
CHANGE BEGINS WITH AWARENESS.
A few months ago we knew nothing of the tree in Jena and now here we are. How many of those trees exist? And in how many schoolyards?
I invite you to discover these trees. And as you become aware I encourage you to share your awareness with others. For only through awareness can we make change.
And I’ll add that you should be mindful for the trees can take many forms. The tree might be a system of beliefs. The tree may live inside your thoughts. We may be nurturing and growing these trees with our actions.
Find the trees!
CHANGE BEGINS WITH AWARENESS.
I wanted to go down to show my support and it would also allow for a great opportunity to film how Black Surfers are active in the well-being of the community. In discussing the plans with Rhonda she invited me to speak at the event. My honest impulse was to find a reason to say ‘no’. Who am I to speak to the crowd? But as I searched my brain for a real reason to pass on this opportunity I found nothing. Why not speak? After all, I fit all the requirements: I am a Black Surfer, I am greatly concerned about how we treat each other & I did spend 3 years in graduate school learning how to speak : ) So I said ‘yes’.
The march took place on Sunset Boulevard in Hollywood at 6:30am. I marched with my surfboard and had the following sign taped to it:
Here is the rough sketch of my speech:
As soon as I heard about this gathering I knew I had to be a part of it. I wanted to join the community. I wanted to put on the black t-shirt and walk among other who were AWARE.
I came down here from San Francisco which is know for being one of the most ‘aware’, ‘in-the-know’ places on earth yet most people I spoke to knew absolutely nothing of the events in Jena.
We have access to all this information still most of us don’t know what is going on.
I grew up surfing. I’ve surfed all over the world. And for the last 9-months I’ve been working on a documentary about Black Surfers. Part of the impetus for the project came when I came when I realized how many people don’t know that there are any Black people who surf. This lack of awareness inspired me to tell their story. On the most basic level…I simply want to make people aware!
And that is what I believe this gathering is all about. By coming together we are saying that we are aware of what is going on in the community. Our coming together will bring awareness to others.
CHANGE BEGINS WITH AWARENESS.
A few months ago we knew nothing of the tree in Jena and now here we are. How many of those trees exist? And in how many schoolyards?
I invite you to discover these trees. And as you become aware I encourage you to share your awareness with others. For only through awareness can we make change.
And I’ll add that you should be mindful for the trees can take many forms. The tree might be a system of beliefs. The tree may live inside your thoughts. We may be nurturing and growing these trees with our actions.
Find the trees!
CHANGE BEGINS WITH AWARENESS.
Sunday, September 02, 2007
#14 The Season
I woke up about a week ago and knew there had been a shift. The air felt different. There was a stillness that was not there when I went to bed. Out the window the sky looked bigger. And then when I checked the buoy readings I saw that there was south swell in the water. These were the signs of the new season…San Francisco’s Surf Season!
I surfed twice that day and nearly everyday since then. That is an unusual feat these days with a job, wife, 2-year old daughter and a new baby arriving in2-months. It seems that my life aligned effortlessly with the shifting elements. Like just last night I had an awesome sunset surf after a full day of work and family fun. Life’s ability to organize itself never ceases to amaze me.
Waves…the good waves begin far from our place of enjoyment. Far out to sea high winds blow directionally over a large area of water for an extended time(aka. fetch). The ocean feels the wind and begins to react. The surface looks agitated as ripples splash and crash chaotically in the direction of the wind. After some time the winds energy is consumed by the sea and the ripples begin to transform. What was once chaotic becomes organized as invisible bands of energy form just below the surface. All of the bands from one given fetch creates the swell. The higher the winds and the longer their duration …the bigger and more organized the swell. The swell marches almost unnoticed for thousands of miles through the ocean until it reaches the shallower waters of the coast. One by one these bands of energy grow and heave into waves. We then tap into their energy as we surf!
This is all to say that things work themselves out. The waves found their way from the wind. It is the same with the desires for our lives. We may have an idea of what it is we want but don’t know how it will ever or can ever come about. Theory and practice have taught me that life will organize around our intention. Granted, the winds did not intend to make waves. That gives us an advantage…..we can set an intention. Imagine if the winds could choose to create a perfect swell for your local spot at your request! Our future is what we decide….
I surfed twice that day and nearly everyday since then. That is an unusual feat these days with a job, wife, 2-year old daughter and a new baby arriving in2-months. It seems that my life aligned effortlessly with the shifting elements. Like just last night I had an awesome sunset surf after a full day of work and family fun. Life’s ability to organize itself never ceases to amaze me.
Waves…the good waves begin far from our place of enjoyment. Far out to sea high winds blow directionally over a large area of water for an extended time(aka. fetch). The ocean feels the wind and begins to react. The surface looks agitated as ripples splash and crash chaotically in the direction of the wind. After some time the winds energy is consumed by the sea and the ripples begin to transform. What was once chaotic becomes organized as invisible bands of energy form just below the surface. All of the bands from one given fetch creates the swell. The higher the winds and the longer their duration …the bigger and more organized the swell. The swell marches almost unnoticed for thousands of miles through the ocean until it reaches the shallower waters of the coast. One by one these bands of energy grow and heave into waves. We then tap into their energy as we surf!
This is all to say that things work themselves out. The waves found their way from the wind. It is the same with the desires for our lives. We may have an idea of what it is we want but don’t know how it will ever or can ever come about. Theory and practice have taught me that life will organize around our intention. Granted, the winds did not intend to make waves. That gives us an advantage…..we can set an intention. Imagine if the winds could choose to create a perfect swell for your local spot at your request! Our future is what we decide….
Monday, August 20, 2007
#13 The Glass
I had planned on getting up at 5:15am this morning for a dawn patrol but my daughter decided that 5:00 would be more appropriate so she got me up a little than expected. After coaxing her back to sleep I was able to be out of the house by 5:30. The weather was clear by my house but as I headed west the fog got so thick I needed the wipers. Even now as I look off my back porch I can see blue skies every directions except west. During the summer the fog enjoys lounging on the coast.
Western fog....
I met my friend at the beach. From the parking lot the ocean was invisible. We decided to go with the odds as far as where to paddle out. There was one spot where 2 dudes and a woman were suiting up. That’s about as good of an assessment as one could wish for given the circumstances. We were not disappointed.
Okay, granted I have had many a session in weak choppy lifeless surf this summer so my wave-o-meter not calibrated. The waves were fun. It’s not so much that they were even that fun because, truth be told, they were backing off quite a bit and had no juice but they were GLASSY!
Oohhhhh, the glass! Paddling out when the ocean is shiny and smooth is a treat regardless of the wave quality. There is something magical about seeing such a huge body of water so well groomed. I imagine myself skimming effortlessly across the surface leaving to trace. And then when the waves came through they were gorgeous. I smile with the thought of it.
Glassy days are rare around here. There is joy in knowing that so many elements had to come together to create those special conditions. It feels like a honor to be able to share in the experience. This morning I celebrated with a few surfers, a curious sea lion pup and a playful dolphin. I still have fond images of exceptionally glassy days from my childhood burned into my memory.
I had planned on getting up at 5:15am this morning for a dawn patrol but my daughter decided that 5:00 would be more appropriate so she got me up a little than expected. After coaxing her back to sleep I was able to be out of the house by 5:30. The weather was clear by my house but as I headed west the fog got so thick I needed the wipers. Even now as I look off my back porch I can see blue skies every directions except west. During the summer the fog enjoys lounging on the coast.
I met my friend at the beach. From the parking lot the ocean was invisible. We decided to go with the odds as far as where to paddle out. There was one spot where 2 dudes and a woman were suiting up. That’s about as good of an assessment as one could wish for given the circumstances. We were not disappointed.
Okay, granted I have had many a session in weak choppy lifeless surf this summer so my wave-o-meter not calibrated. The waves were fun. It’s not so much that they were even that fun because, truth be told, they were backing off quite a bit and had no juice but they were GLASSY!
Oohhhhh, the glass! Paddling out when the ocean is shiny and smooth is a treat regardless of the wave quality. There is something magical about seeing such a huge body of water so well groomed. I imagine myself skimming effortlessly across the surface leaving to trace. And then when the waves came through they were gorgeous. I smile with the thought of it.
Glassy days are rare around here. There is joy in knowing that so many elements had to come together to create those special conditions. It feels like a honor to be able to share in the experience. This morning I celebrated with a few surfers, a curious sea lion pup and a playful dolphin. I still have fond images of exceptionally glassy days from my childhood burned into my memory.
Western fog....I met my friend at the beach. From the parking lot the ocean was invisible. We decided to go with the odds as far as where to paddle out. There was one spot where 2 dudes and a woman were suiting up. That’s about as good of an assessment as one could wish for given the circumstances. We were not disappointed.
Okay, granted I have had many a session in weak choppy lifeless surf this summer so my wave-o-meter not calibrated. The waves were fun. It’s not so much that they were even that fun because, truth be told, they were backing off quite a bit and had no juice but they were GLASSY!
Oohhhhh, the glass! Paddling out when the ocean is shiny and smooth is a treat regardless of the wave quality. There is something magical about seeing such a huge body of water so well groomed. I imagine myself skimming effortlessly across the surface leaving to trace. And then when the waves came through they were gorgeous. I smile with the thought of it.
Glassy days are rare around here. There is joy in knowing that so many elements had to come together to create those special conditions. It feels like a honor to be able to share in the experience. This morning I celebrated with a few surfers, a curious sea lion pup and a playful dolphin. I still have fond images of exceptionally glassy days from my childhood burned into my memory.
I had planned on getting up at 5:15am this morning for a dawn patrol but my daughter decided that 5:00 would be more appropriate so she got me up a little than expected. After coaxing her back to sleep I was able to be out of the house by 5:30. The weather was clear by my house but as I headed west the fog got so thick I needed the wipers. Even now as I look off my back porch I can see blue skies every directions except west. During the summer the fog enjoys lounging on the coast.
I met my friend at the beach. From the parking lot the ocean was invisible. We decided to go with the odds as far as where to paddle out. There was one spot where 2 dudes and a woman were suiting up. That’s about as good of an assessment as one could wish for given the circumstances. We were not disappointed.
Okay, granted I have had many a session in weak choppy lifeless surf this summer so my wave-o-meter not calibrated. The waves were fun. It’s not so much that they were even that fun because, truth be told, they were backing off quite a bit and had no juice but they were GLASSY!
Oohhhhh, the glass! Paddling out when the ocean is shiny and smooth is a treat regardless of the wave quality. There is something magical about seeing such a huge body of water so well groomed. I imagine myself skimming effortlessly across the surface leaving to trace. And then when the waves came through they were gorgeous. I smile with the thought of it.
Glassy days are rare around here. There is joy in knowing that so many elements had to come together to create those special conditions. It feels like a honor to be able to share in the experience. This morning I celebrated with a few surfers, a curious sea lion pup and a playful dolphin. I still have fond images of exceptionally glassy days from my childhood burned into my memory.
Tuesday, August 07, 2007
#12 Enjoyment
There is that famous quote that I’ve heard many times and in many places that goes something like: The best surfer is the one who is having the most fun. I’m not sure who said it but I’m glad they did. This idea has been on my mind a lot recently as I’ve found myself losing some of the pure enjoyment of surfing.
I have been putting a lot of thought and energy into improving my game in the water. Outside the water I have been developing the ‘perfect’ workout routine to maximize my strength and flexibility and balance in the water. There is the stuff from the last entry but that is only the beginning. I am constantly finding excuses to squat down so that low center of balance position becomes 2nd nature. It is a big deal for me at 6’2” and all the height coming from my legs. My wife likes to enjoy the fact that when we sit down she looks down on me.
And then there are the thoughts of surfing. All day long I am daydreaming and analyzing and plotting surf related ideas. I do take breaks to accomplish needed tasks but those are like commercial breaks from the 24~hour marathon. The other day I was telling my wife about a wave I had gotten and midway through I let out this big grunt as I simulated a turn. She laughed and said, “wow, you don’t make noises like that when we make love!” I laughed because I knew she was right and said, “well, yeah! I’ve been in love with you for 8 years but I’ve been in love with surfing for my whole life.” Fortunately, she finds understanding through her lifelong love affair with dance.
When I get in the water it’s time to apply and experiment. I paddle out with a mission. I have specific things I want to try. Each wave is a chance to improve upon the last. After a wave I analyze. What happened? What did I learn? How can I do it better? I am constantly watching other surfers to glean anything I can from there style. I am watching the ocean to see what gems of knowledge I can gather from her movement. I am obsessed to this pursuit of improvement.
I actually don’t mind a little obsession but when it starts to remove the enjoyment things are going to far. I’ve been reading this book called ‘flow’ which talks about achieving happiness. According to them one of the main ingredients to happiness is attaining enjoyment. Enjoyment is achieved through effort towards some goal. Enjoyment is achieved using some level of skill. Enjoyment isn’t always ‘fun’ at the time but when reflected on is looked at as an ‘enjoyed’ experience. Hmmmm….
The more I write about this the more I realize I don’t need to write about it. Surfing absolutely gives me enjoyment! My hang up is a tendency to want instant results. And this expectation leads to a diminished sense of enjoyment. The true lesson here is to develop compassion & patience with myself as I paddle down this lifelong watery path….
I have been putting a lot of thought and energy into improving my game in the water. Outside the water I have been developing the ‘perfect’ workout routine to maximize my strength and flexibility and balance in the water. There is the stuff from the last entry but that is only the beginning. I am constantly finding excuses to squat down so that low center of balance position becomes 2nd nature. It is a big deal for me at 6’2” and all the height coming from my legs. My wife likes to enjoy the fact that when we sit down she looks down on me.
And then there are the thoughts of surfing. All day long I am daydreaming and analyzing and plotting surf related ideas. I do take breaks to accomplish needed tasks but those are like commercial breaks from the 24~hour marathon. The other day I was telling my wife about a wave I had gotten and midway through I let out this big grunt as I simulated a turn. She laughed and said, “wow, you don’t make noises like that when we make love!” I laughed because I knew she was right and said, “well, yeah! I’ve been in love with you for 8 years but I’ve been in love with surfing for my whole life.” Fortunately, she finds understanding through her lifelong love affair with dance.
When I get in the water it’s time to apply and experiment. I paddle out with a mission. I have specific things I want to try. Each wave is a chance to improve upon the last. After a wave I analyze. What happened? What did I learn? How can I do it better? I am constantly watching other surfers to glean anything I can from there style. I am watching the ocean to see what gems of knowledge I can gather from her movement. I am obsessed to this pursuit of improvement.
I actually don’t mind a little obsession but when it starts to remove the enjoyment things are going to far. I’ve been reading this book called ‘flow’ which talks about achieving happiness. According to them one of the main ingredients to happiness is attaining enjoyment. Enjoyment is achieved through effort towards some goal. Enjoyment is achieved using some level of skill. Enjoyment isn’t always ‘fun’ at the time but when reflected on is looked at as an ‘enjoyed’ experience. Hmmmm….
The more I write about this the more I realize I don’t need to write about it. Surfing absolutely gives me enjoyment! My hang up is a tendency to want instant results. And this expectation leads to a diminished sense of enjoyment. The true lesson here is to develop compassion & patience with myself as I paddle down this lifelong watery path….
Sunday, June 10, 2007
#11 Surf Subsidy
Springtime! High Onshore Winds! White-Capped Seas! Choppy Surf! I guess it’s the seasonal balance we have to endure to enjoy the offshore glassy surf of fall. I’ve still managed to motivate myself…sometimes….to go out into the slop in search of that one good one. I don’t always find it but it is always revitalizing to take that dip in the Pacific. This season, in particular, there have been many-a-day that I didn’t heed the inner draw to the ocean because of ‘life busy-ness’ so I’ve had nurture other ways of subsidizing my surf habit.
For the record I have to state that NOTHING can replace surfing. I’m tempted to explain why but it would take a lifetime….and I guess that’s why the blog : ) That aside there are some things I do to keep me physically and mentally prepared for my next surf. The 3 regulars in my life right now are: Skateboarding, Swimming & Tai Chi.
I grew up riding a regular short skateboard. I was mostly a street skater but would dabble in the Del Mar Skatepark before it’s unfortunate demolition. Those were the days when it was common to slam my body into the concrete repeatedly during the day as I learned new tricks or heaven-forbid I would hit a rock while cruising down the sidewalk! I just had a flashback to my college days. I had stayed up all night for a final in my physics class….appropriate! In a state of total delirium I decided I would skate to class to help get the juices flowing for the test. It was working. The cool morning air. filled my pores. My senses sharpened as I whizzed past the other strolling students. I was feeling ready to own that test……..and then I hit the eucalyptus seed! All that good energy I had built up was violently expelled as I body-slammed to the pavement. I don’t recommend staying up all night before a test.
Nowadays I have transferred my love of skating to a longboard. Straightaway it’s awesome because the weight and size of it seems to allow it to plow over those once menacing pebbles. I left the tricks behind too: no more ollies. These days it’s all about carving!
My skate is about 3.5 feet long with some fat, soft, sticky wheels. I keep the trucks fairly loose. I could use some new bearings but it still goes fast enough to get the job done. I’m on a hiatus from riding my bike all over the city and my skateboard is now my main transport.
My bike gloves have transitioned nicely to skate gloves so I can go for the occasional blacktop hand drag. Any smooth flat or downhill surface provides a great place to ride. On the streets I’ll coast in the bike lane until traffic clears and then drift out into the lane as if dropping into a clean lined-up section. And then it’s all about getting low and getting in as many turns as I can before the next motorized 4-wheeler drops in on me. Sidewalks are fun too. The people, trees, fire hydrants & light posts make for good weaving obstacles….and they generally provide a smoother surface.
One epic skate mission I experienced started long before sunrise. At 4:00am one morning 4 dudes and myself piled into a van and headed north across the Golden Gate bridge on route to Mt. Tamalpais. We drove as far as we could up the mountain and then grabbed our skates and helmets and hiked up the gated-off ranger road. Fog had enveloped most of our journey but about halfway up the curvy, tree lined street we broke free of the fog and were welcomed by the clear brightening sky and the lingering stars. We got to the top with just enough time to find a comfortable boulder seat for the show. Below us a blanket of fog sheltered the bay and with universal precision the new day began as the sun peeked its head above the eastern hills. We watched until our souls were charged and then we mounted our boards for the uninterrupted flow down, down, down….
Swimming has obvious value to any surfer. We are land animals. Surfing takes place in the ocean. The ocean is big and powerful. The only way to navigate the ocean (if your leash breaks..which it is known to do) is to be able to swim…well! So for that I swim.
I also started swimming to increase my paddle strength & endurance. After doing some varied style warm up laps I grab one of those hourglass shaped floatation devices and pinch it between my thighs. This floats my legs and allows me to pull myself through the water using only my upper body for an extended period. It’s a good surf simulator. The psychological benefits of knowing I can swim a great distance will be comforting on the bigger days.
The hidden benefit of swimming is the anti-gravity effect. All day long we are relentlessly mashed down by the force of gravity. The effects of this are clear in the shrinking and sagging bodies of our wise elders. The water provides support against gravity. It gives our joints and skeleton and skin a break. Thinking back to how our lives began in the warm, nurturing, suspension of our Mother’s womb gives support to there being some natural, healthy, life enhancing qualities to being surrounded by water.
Surfing is similar but not quite the same because our body is being smashed against the board. The ocean, however, has innumerable other healing qualities that surpass any swimming pool. Sounds like the best thing to do would be to add some bodysurfing to end of each session! : )
On a blown out day last year I was going for a walk along the boardwalk and came across a friend of mine, Sparky. He too was looking out over the sea for the one wave that would inspire him to paddle out. He shared with me one of his life secrets to good health and well-being [& better surfing!]….tai chi. Once I got that information I never looked back.
A common image that comes to mind when I think of tai chi is of old Chinese people moving slowly in a park. It’s actually a very fitting image. Tai Chi is one of the oldest exercises in Chinese history…so old that its beginnings come from the world of legends. Its purpose is simple: to extend life! Of course this is probably the most complicated simple task I can think of…but that’s beside the point : ) The neat thing is that it works. Remember the image: OLD Chinese people. And not only are they old they are moving in ways that most people half their age cannot!
I began by going to the source. I found a group that practices everyday: rain, wind, fog, whatever happens they practice! That’s part of the magic: discipline. The group consisted of about 35 people…all Chinese….95% women…and 95% looked over the age of 65. For an hour they practiced Qi Gong & Tai Chi. And then they would do 30-minutes of line-dancing! Here were a group of ‘old’ people that had found the fountain of youth. To move like them at there age would truly be a gift. A few of them would take turns leading each day. It was totally free to join. And all were welcome. I learned a lot from them but there was no direct teaching so I searched out another group.
In search of a group that I heard practiced in Golden Gate park I stumbled across another small group of people practicing under the trees by the lake. Again they welcomed me to the group. This class was led by a middle-aged Chinese man who 10 years prior had a serious back injury. After unsuccessfully trying everything to fix it he found tai chi…..and it worked. His back is stronger than it’s been his entire life….and you can see it in the way he moves! He teaches the class for free as a way to give back for all tai chi has given him. His passionate teaching was an inspiration. I’ve taken the fundamental teachings from him and now simply use a dvd to learn. It’s not ideal but it’s the best way to keep things going with my schedule.
The advantages of this practice are many. One of the cool things about tai chi is that all I need to practice is a flat surface. Recently, I’ve been using the tennis court near my house. This has a perk because when I’m done I skate around a bit. The court surface is extra-‘grippy’ allowing for sharp turns. I’ve also been playing with walking the length of my board as if I were surfing a longboard…..oooh, I want a longboard so bad! : )
As far as tai chi and surfing. One of the fundamental movements is a twisting of the torso with the knees in a bent position…..prime surfing movement! The movement is done slowly which builds strength throughout every position of the movement. The slow movement also brings awareness to the limits and potential of the body. It’s surprising to find out how difficult it is to move slowly for an extended period of time…physically & mentally! And that’s the other huge bonus of tai chi: development of concentration. Mind & body become trained to work as one. And according to the legend if you are diligent in your practice you can achieve immortality……I’d be stoked to be an old healthy guy in the line-up : )
As a bonus I’ve been able to add one of my old standby’s back into my life: Yoga. My wife teaches Pilates at Bernal Yoga and they allow spouses to take unlimited yoga classes. So Respectable!!!
When I was in Australia I knew this guy, Fish, who was a farmer. Every night he would get absolutely wasted on drugs and alcohol. I watched this for a couple months and then one day said, “Fish, why do you do this to yourself?” With a corner smile he replied, “We’re all going to die……..it would be a waste to die healthy.” And then we laughed : )
He had a point and to it I would add: To die is certain…..to live is not.
Let's strive to LIVE!
For the record I have to state that NOTHING can replace surfing. I’m tempted to explain why but it would take a lifetime….and I guess that’s why the blog : ) That aside there are some things I do to keep me physically and mentally prepared for my next surf. The 3 regulars in my life right now are: Skateboarding, Swimming & Tai Chi.
I grew up riding a regular short skateboard. I was mostly a street skater but would dabble in the Del Mar Skatepark before it’s unfortunate demolition. Those were the days when it was common to slam my body into the concrete repeatedly during the day as I learned new tricks or heaven-forbid I would hit a rock while cruising down the sidewalk! I just had a flashback to my college days. I had stayed up all night for a final in my physics class….appropriate! In a state of total delirium I decided I would skate to class to help get the juices flowing for the test. It was working. The cool morning air. filled my pores. My senses sharpened as I whizzed past the other strolling students. I was feeling ready to own that test……..and then I hit the eucalyptus seed! All that good energy I had built up was violently expelled as I body-slammed to the pavement. I don’t recommend staying up all night before a test.
Nowadays I have transferred my love of skating to a longboard. Straightaway it’s awesome because the weight and size of it seems to allow it to plow over those once menacing pebbles. I left the tricks behind too: no more ollies. These days it’s all about carving! My skate is about 3.5 feet long with some fat, soft, sticky wheels. I keep the trucks fairly loose. I could use some new bearings but it still goes fast enough to get the job done. I’m on a hiatus from riding my bike all over the city and my skateboard is now my main transport.
My bike gloves have transitioned nicely to skate gloves so I can go for the occasional blacktop hand drag. Any smooth flat or downhill surface provides a great place to ride. On the streets I’ll coast in the bike lane until traffic clears and then drift out into the lane as if dropping into a clean lined-up section. And then it’s all about getting low and getting in as many turns as I can before the next motorized 4-wheeler drops in on me. Sidewalks are fun too. The people, trees, fire hydrants & light posts make for good weaving obstacles….and they generally provide a smoother surface. One epic skate mission I experienced started long before sunrise. At 4:00am one morning 4 dudes and myself piled into a van and headed north across the Golden Gate bridge on route to Mt. Tamalpais. We drove as far as we could up the mountain and then grabbed our skates and helmets and hiked up the gated-off ranger road. Fog had enveloped most of our journey but about halfway up the curvy, tree lined street we broke free of the fog and were welcomed by the clear brightening sky and the lingering stars. We got to the top with just enough time to find a comfortable boulder seat for the show. Below us a blanket of fog sheltered the bay and with universal precision the new day began as the sun peeked its head above the eastern hills. We watched until our souls were charged and then we mounted our boards for the uninterrupted flow down, down, down….
Swimming has obvious value to any surfer. We are land animals. Surfing takes place in the ocean. The ocean is big and powerful. The only way to navigate the ocean (if your leash breaks..which it is known to do) is to be able to swim…well! So for that I swim.
I also started swimming to increase my paddle strength & endurance. After doing some varied style warm up laps I grab one of those hourglass shaped floatation devices and pinch it between my thighs. This floats my legs and allows me to pull myself through the water using only my upper body for an extended period. It’s a good surf simulator. The psychological benefits of knowing I can swim a great distance will be comforting on the bigger days.
The hidden benefit of swimming is the anti-gravity effect. All day long we are relentlessly mashed down by the force of gravity. The effects of this are clear in the shrinking and sagging bodies of our wise elders. The water provides support against gravity. It gives our joints and skeleton and skin a break. Thinking back to how our lives began in the warm, nurturing, suspension of our Mother’s womb gives support to there being some natural, healthy, life enhancing qualities to being surrounded by water.
Surfing is similar but not quite the same because our body is being smashed against the board. The ocean, however, has innumerable other healing qualities that surpass any swimming pool. Sounds like the best thing to do would be to add some bodysurfing to end of each session! : )
On a blown out day last year I was going for a walk along the boardwalk and came across a friend of mine, Sparky. He too was looking out over the sea for the one wave that would inspire him to paddle out. He shared with me one of his life secrets to good health and well-being [& better surfing!]….tai chi. Once I got that information I never looked back.
A common image that comes to mind when I think of tai chi is of old Chinese people moving slowly in a park. It’s actually a very fitting image. Tai Chi is one of the oldest exercises in Chinese history…so old that its beginnings come from the world of legends. Its purpose is simple: to extend life! Of course this is probably the most complicated simple task I can think of…but that’s beside the point : ) The neat thing is that it works. Remember the image: OLD Chinese people. And not only are they old they are moving in ways that most people half their age cannot!
I began by going to the source. I found a group that practices everyday: rain, wind, fog, whatever happens they practice! That’s part of the magic: discipline. The group consisted of about 35 people…all Chinese….95% women…and 95% looked over the age of 65. For an hour they practiced Qi Gong & Tai Chi. And then they would do 30-minutes of line-dancing! Here were a group of ‘old’ people that had found the fountain of youth. To move like them at there age would truly be a gift. A few of them would take turns leading each day. It was totally free to join. And all were welcome. I learned a lot from them but there was no direct teaching so I searched out another group.
In search of a group that I heard practiced in Golden Gate park I stumbled across another small group of people practicing under the trees by the lake. Again they welcomed me to the group. This class was led by a middle-aged Chinese man who 10 years prior had a serious back injury. After unsuccessfully trying everything to fix it he found tai chi…..and it worked. His back is stronger than it’s been his entire life….and you can see it in the way he moves! He teaches the class for free as a way to give back for all tai chi has given him. His passionate teaching was an inspiration. I’ve taken the fundamental teachings from him and now simply use a dvd to learn. It’s not ideal but it’s the best way to keep things going with my schedule.
The advantages of this practice are many. One of the cool things about tai chi is that all I need to practice is a flat surface. Recently, I’ve been using the tennis court near my house. This has a perk because when I’m done I skate around a bit. The court surface is extra-‘grippy’ allowing for sharp turns. I’ve also been playing with walking the length of my board as if I were surfing a longboard…..oooh, I want a longboard so bad! : )
As far as tai chi and surfing. One of the fundamental movements is a twisting of the torso with the knees in a bent position…..prime surfing movement! The movement is done slowly which builds strength throughout every position of the movement. The slow movement also brings awareness to the limits and potential of the body. It’s surprising to find out how difficult it is to move slowly for an extended period of time…physically & mentally! And that’s the other huge bonus of tai chi: development of concentration. Mind & body become trained to work as one. And according to the legend if you are diligent in your practice you can achieve immortality……I’d be stoked to be an old healthy guy in the line-up : )
As a bonus I’ve been able to add one of my old standby’s back into my life: Yoga. My wife teaches Pilates at Bernal Yoga and they allow spouses to take unlimited yoga classes. So Respectable!!!
When I was in Australia I knew this guy, Fish, who was a farmer. Every night he would get absolutely wasted on drugs and alcohol. I watched this for a couple months and then one day said, “Fish, why do you do this to yourself?” With a corner smile he replied, “We’re all going to die……..it would be a waste to die healthy.” And then we laughed : )
He had a point and to it I would add: To die is certain…..to live is not.
Let's strive to LIVE!
Sunday, June 03, 2007
#10 ACTION VS. DISTRACTION [aka...Dissed-Action]
This year has been a relatively dry one for me. Now that spring is nearly gone and I reflect on what went down I see that I had some valuable lessons to learn….
It all started in late January…..actually it started in late December when I pigged out on delicious, decadent junk food at my parents house for the holidays which led to illness upon returning home but that’s a different insight…..getting back to late January…..I was out at OB on a sunny head-high, clean day…..atypical for winter. I was surfing with a good friend. There was no crowd. There were plenty of wave s for everyone. It was one of those days where I was reminded why I love calling OB home.
I felt good heading into the water. ….loose….fluid. I had been watching some surf videos of the pros and analyzing their style for technical inspiration. I felt like some of it had sank into me. About a fourth of the way into the session this nice left came my way. …I’m a goofy-footer! In my excited state I dropped-in, bottom-turned & had a nice carve off the top. I know it was a nice carve because I saw it…..and that’s where the problem lies!
While my head remained gloriously admiring the fan of water over my left shoulder the lower half of my body continued around & down to the bottom of the wave. My energy was going down and right while my head went up and left. My spine got totally compressed and my hips were instantly jammed out of alignment. Even the chiropractor was like, “Wow!” when she looked at my twisted skeleton. It was not good….definitely as painful as one might expect. Thankfully she was able to tweek me back.
So what went wrong? This was an extreme example of the downfall of distraction. The distraction was my desire to see the maneuver while trying to do the maneuver. Whereas the pros are pulling off all of these amazing maneuvers they rarely witness the results. That’s because in order to pull the maneuver they have to complete it with their whole body….which means ‘no peeking’. The head is the heaviest part of our body and where it goes the rest of the body will naturally want to follow. I started the movement with my head and as my body followed I looked back to see the spray but it was too late. The momentum of the board and the wave carried my feet around while my head remained behind me…..crunch!
In any surf video you can see how the pros lead all their movement with their head. It’s actually neat to watch a video and focus on their heads. It is amazing how quickly their heads are swiveling around leading them through an infinite array of intricate maneuvers. This phenomenon of the ‘leading head’ can be seen in any activity. Even the simple act of walking begins with our head. It should really be called ‘falling’ because we are actually allowing our head to gently fall forward and then stepping forward to catch it.
Getting back to the distraction. I need to work on simplifying my action. Whatever it is I’m trying to do I need to just do it. As much as my ego wants to checkout what is going on I need to let go and trust that things are working. Until then the distraction will ruin all attempts at advancing my surfing…..thus the ‘dissed~action’!
As usual this applies effortlessly to life. Anything and everything we strive to do in life could be called and ‘action’. The dictionary defines action as: the process or state of acting or doing. Well, that about sums up life. All day every day we are doing things. The more we can concentrate on whatever it is we are doing the more success we will have.
And distraction has many faces. There are the obvious times we know we are giving into some distraction. And there are the times that distraction disguises itself as a seemingly productive activity. An example might be deciding to clean your house when you have an important project due for school or work the next day. Yeah, the house may be dirty but cleaning right now might lead to a less successful project.
As I incorporate these ideas into my life I’ve found that it’s important to be patient with myself. Going the way of distraction is as human as breathing. So when I find myself ‘off-the-path’ I take a breath and allow myself to ease back on track. Each breath is an opportunity to try again….
It all started in late January…..actually it started in late December when I pigged out on delicious, decadent junk food at my parents house for the holidays which led to illness upon returning home but that’s a different insight…..getting back to late January…..I was out at OB on a sunny head-high, clean day…..atypical for winter. I was surfing with a good friend. There was no crowd. There were plenty of wave s for everyone. It was one of those days where I was reminded why I love calling OB home.
I felt good heading into the water. ….loose….fluid. I had been watching some surf videos of the pros and analyzing their style for technical inspiration. I felt like some of it had sank into me. About a fourth of the way into the session this nice left came my way. …I’m a goofy-footer! In my excited state I dropped-in, bottom-turned & had a nice carve off the top. I know it was a nice carve because I saw it…..and that’s where the problem lies!
While my head remained gloriously admiring the fan of water over my left shoulder the lower half of my body continued around & down to the bottom of the wave. My energy was going down and right while my head went up and left. My spine got totally compressed and my hips were instantly jammed out of alignment. Even the chiropractor was like, “Wow!” when she looked at my twisted skeleton. It was not good….definitely as painful as one might expect. Thankfully she was able to tweek me back.
So what went wrong? This was an extreme example of the downfall of distraction. The distraction was my desire to see the maneuver while trying to do the maneuver. Whereas the pros are pulling off all of these amazing maneuvers they rarely witness the results. That’s because in order to pull the maneuver they have to complete it with their whole body….which means ‘no peeking’. The head is the heaviest part of our body and where it goes the rest of the body will naturally want to follow. I started the movement with my head and as my body followed I looked back to see the spray but it was too late. The momentum of the board and the wave carried my feet around while my head remained behind me…..crunch!
In any surf video you can see how the pros lead all their movement with their head. It’s actually neat to watch a video and focus on their heads. It is amazing how quickly their heads are swiveling around leading them through an infinite array of intricate maneuvers. This phenomenon of the ‘leading head’ can be seen in any activity. Even the simple act of walking begins with our head. It should really be called ‘falling’ because we are actually allowing our head to gently fall forward and then stepping forward to catch it.
Getting back to the distraction. I need to work on simplifying my action. Whatever it is I’m trying to do I need to just do it. As much as my ego wants to checkout what is going on I need to let go and trust that things are working. Until then the distraction will ruin all attempts at advancing my surfing…..thus the ‘dissed~action’!
As usual this applies effortlessly to life. Anything and everything we strive to do in life could be called and ‘action’. The dictionary defines action as: the process or state of acting or doing. Well, that about sums up life. All day every day we are doing things. The more we can concentrate on whatever it is we are doing the more success we will have.
And distraction has many faces. There are the obvious times we know we are giving into some distraction. And there are the times that distraction disguises itself as a seemingly productive activity. An example might be deciding to clean your house when you have an important project due for school or work the next day. Yeah, the house may be dirty but cleaning right now might lead to a less successful project.
As I incorporate these ideas into my life I’ve found that it’s important to be patient with myself. Going the way of distraction is as human as breathing. So when I find myself ‘off-the-path’ I take a breath and allow myself to ease back on track. Each breath is an opportunity to try again….
Monday, February 26, 2007
#9 The Documentary
The message on my phone this afternoon was “I heard you got started. A friend told me there were a bunch of Black guys with boards and cameras at the beach. “
We’ve actually been brainstorming, researching, making connections and have had one other filming session but today did feel like the beginning! Kevin, who I interviewed a few blogs back, and myself are putting our energy into making a documentary about the Black Surfing Experience.
This morning at 7:15am my buzzer sounds the arrival of Kevin with the camera. He’s here to get some footage of me packing gear into the car for the session. At the van I meet another Black surfer who Kevin met one day getting out of the water. His name is Jerrod Ewell. He grew up surfing the waters of Oahu and has become a recent transplant to the mainland. Right away the deep camaraderie of this shared passion makes the stories start to flow. He tells me how in one of his earliest sessions he was saved in the water by the legendary Black surfer Buttons Kaluhiokalani.
The stories continued to flow all the way across the Golden Gate Bridge as we made our way to Cronkhite Beach where we would meet up with another Black surfer whose roots go all the way back to the Dogtown crew, Jason Gittens. He’s surfed & skated with some of the best of them, traveled the world in search off waves and now calls this cozy, tucked away wave his homebreak.
The cameras rolled in the cold, misty morning as we enthusiastically came together to share some waves. The elements joined in by giving us a small window of some fun little waves before the onshores turned on and blew us out of the water. Jason and I introduced Jerrod to the Nor Cal tradition of carrying a large bottle of hot water in the car for a euphoric post cold-water –surf rinse. From there it was off to the local Marin surf shop, Proof Lab. Without any notice they welcomed us in and let us set up to do some on camera interviews right in the middle of the shop.
It was an epic day. Everything came together in ways greater than our expectation. For me today was an inspiration that this film need to be made. These stories need to be told. The more I learn the more excited & surprised I am by the depth of the Black Surf Experience. Stories reaching back to the 40’s. Stories arising from all over the globe. Stories that transcend race, class, gender & any other artificial divisive classification are alive and ready to be shared.
I started this blog with the intention to add one more voice to a growing diversity of surfers. That impulse has grown into a desire to share the many voices that are relishing the joys of a life in the ocean….
Check out the website!
www.BlackSurferDocumentary.com
Contact us if you would like to get involved!
Surf like there is no tomorrow!
We’ve actually been brainstorming, researching, making connections and have had one other filming session but today did feel like the beginning! Kevin, who I interviewed a few blogs back, and myself are putting our energy into making a documentary about the Black Surfing Experience.
This morning at 7:15am my buzzer sounds the arrival of Kevin with the camera. He’s here to get some footage of me packing gear into the car for the session. At the van I meet another Black surfer who Kevin met one day getting out of the water. His name is Jerrod Ewell. He grew up surfing the waters of Oahu and has become a recent transplant to the mainland. Right away the deep camaraderie of this shared passion makes the stories start to flow. He tells me how in one of his earliest sessions he was saved in the water by the legendary Black surfer Buttons Kaluhiokalani.
The stories continued to flow all the way across the Golden Gate Bridge as we made our way to Cronkhite Beach where we would meet up with another Black surfer whose roots go all the way back to the Dogtown crew, Jason Gittens. He’s surfed & skated with some of the best of them, traveled the world in search off waves and now calls this cozy, tucked away wave his homebreak.
The cameras rolled in the cold, misty morning as we enthusiastically came together to share some waves. The elements joined in by giving us a small window of some fun little waves before the onshores turned on and blew us out of the water. Jason and I introduced Jerrod to the Nor Cal tradition of carrying a large bottle of hot water in the car for a euphoric post cold-water –surf rinse. From there it was off to the local Marin surf shop, Proof Lab. Without any notice they welcomed us in and let us set up to do some on camera interviews right in the middle of the shop.
It was an epic day. Everything came together in ways greater than our expectation. For me today was an inspiration that this film need to be made. These stories need to be told. The more I learn the more excited & surprised I am by the depth of the Black Surf Experience. Stories reaching back to the 40’s. Stories arising from all over the globe. Stories that transcend race, class, gender & any other artificial divisive classification are alive and ready to be shared.
I started this blog with the intention to add one more voice to a growing diversity of surfers. That impulse has grown into a desire to share the many voices that are relishing the joys of a life in the ocean….
Check out the website!
www.BlackSurferDocumentary.com
Contact us if you would like to get involved!
Surf like there is no tomorrow!
Friday, February 09, 2007
#8 [Flashback] Nias Island: Alifa II
It’s now about 8:30pm two days after the attack and the Pit Monsters should be coming out of their daytime slumber. I don’t want to kill them so I’m going to trap them in a water bottle and free them across the street in the rice fields….at least that’s the plan….
No one was up when I first checked before bed so I just went to sleep & figured I’d see them through the night, as usual. Sure enough on my first ‘wake & pee’ I found the bigger of the smaller one’s EATING at the bottom of the steps. This was great because I didn’t know what they ate.
The Pit Monster’s were carnivorous!!! A giant cockroach lay in 3 pieces being devoured by the Monster. Cool! I would miss the exterminator qualities but it was time to evacuate.
Using my trap made of a 1.5 liter water bottle with the top cut off and a 12 inch extremely rusty knife I patiently and easily gathered up the Monster. I then took it across the street for relocation. It looked even more ominous as it frantically, yet purposefully, crawled around a giant leaf violently swinging its body in the air. Once it reached the ground it darted straight into a hole…..someone received an unexpected, unhappy guest!
With that creature removed I was chillin’ with the thought of removing the small one. I didn’t see it however, so I went to bed. As I slept a huge thunderstorm rolled in bringing Monsoon amounts of rain. Upon returning to the bathroom later in the night I found a surprise that got stirred up by the downpour…..the HUGE Pit Monster had returned!
I was peeing when I first saw it and my reflexes took me on top of the toilet bowl in one quick leap. This time it didn’t ease my concern with slow movement; it raced frantically along the floor with uncanny quickness. I knew what had to be done but wasn’t eager.
I grabbed my trusty knife and containment device for the hunt. For the previous hunt I had prepared myself by getting clothed but this sudden challenge had me butt naked. In retrospect it was a sweet….Nature vs. Nature moment! : )
After a couple unsuccessful round-up’s the Monster ran up the leg of the table. There, it lay motionless waiting for my next move. It had to be returned to the floor for capture so I decided to give it a quick poke with the knife. Sounded easy enough.
However when I poked the Monster it clung to the end of my knife and quickly raced up the blade towards my hand……Uuuuughhh! I flung the knife & teleported to the top of the stairs!
Deep breath…….okay, no problem. I could see the Monster on the floor and my knife was accessible. The hunt had to continue.
With tools gathered I nudged the Monster into the corner. The nudges were actually more like solid pushes because this thing did not want to move. The amount of resistance and mass of this creature was way more than any bug. Eventually it curled itself up in such a way that its stinging tail stuck out creating a formidable defense.
After much shaky & hesitant prodding I got it inside the container. Once captured it lay still. I held it to the light for a respectful investigation before setting it free in the rain across the street.
Phew, my adrenalin was crazy!
It took a week and another big thunderstorm to bring the smallest Monster out. Again I found myself in the raw for the hunt. Experience made successful nabbing come quick.
Still, I had an uneasy feeling because I swear it looked Bigger!…..
No one was up when I first checked before bed so I just went to sleep & figured I’d see them through the night, as usual. Sure enough on my first ‘wake & pee’ I found the bigger of the smaller one’s EATING at the bottom of the steps. This was great because I didn’t know what they ate.
The Pit Monster’s were carnivorous!!! A giant cockroach lay in 3 pieces being devoured by the Monster. Cool! I would miss the exterminator qualities but it was time to evacuate.
Using my trap made of a 1.5 liter water bottle with the top cut off and a 12 inch extremely rusty knife I patiently and easily gathered up the Monster. I then took it across the street for relocation. It looked even more ominous as it frantically, yet purposefully, crawled around a giant leaf violently swinging its body in the air. Once it reached the ground it darted straight into a hole…..someone received an unexpected, unhappy guest!
With that creature removed I was chillin’ with the thought of removing the small one. I didn’t see it however, so I went to bed. As I slept a huge thunderstorm rolled in bringing Monsoon amounts of rain. Upon returning to the bathroom later in the night I found a surprise that got stirred up by the downpour…..the HUGE Pit Monster had returned!
I was peeing when I first saw it and my reflexes took me on top of the toilet bowl in one quick leap. This time it didn’t ease my concern with slow movement; it raced frantically along the floor with uncanny quickness. I knew what had to be done but wasn’t eager.
I grabbed my trusty knife and containment device for the hunt. For the previous hunt I had prepared myself by getting clothed but this sudden challenge had me butt naked. In retrospect it was a sweet….Nature vs. Nature moment! : )
After a couple unsuccessful round-up’s the Monster ran up the leg of the table. There, it lay motionless waiting for my next move. It had to be returned to the floor for capture so I decided to give it a quick poke with the knife. Sounded easy enough.
However when I poked the Monster it clung to the end of my knife and quickly raced up the blade towards my hand……Uuuuughhh! I flung the knife & teleported to the top of the stairs!
Deep breath…….okay, no problem. I could see the Monster on the floor and my knife was accessible. The hunt had to continue.
With tools gathered I nudged the Monster into the corner. The nudges were actually more like solid pushes because this thing did not want to move. The amount of resistance and mass of this creature was way more than any bug. Eventually it curled itself up in such a way that its stinging tail stuck out creating a formidable defense.
After much shaky & hesitant prodding I got it inside the container. Once captured it lay still. I held it to the light for a respectful investigation before setting it free in the rain across the street.
Phew, my adrenalin was crazy!
It took a week and another big thunderstorm to bring the smallest Monster out. Again I found myself in the raw for the hunt. Experience made successful nabbing come quick.
Still, I had an uneasy feeling because I swear it looked Bigger!…..
Friday, December 15, 2006
#7 ~ Riding the Rogue Wave
~Last Winter~
Ocean Beach was huge today. It was one of those days where it seems the entire city comes to check out the waves. My whole family made the journey. From high on the hill of Skyline Boulevard I could see waves breaking and whitewash rolling so far out to sea that it seemed like a totally different beach. I had to ask my wife to repeat what she was saying as I got lost in calculations of how far out that must be and how big those waves must be to be breaking so far from shore. The buoys were reading over 20 feet but when we reached the shore it was hard to tell the size for a couple reasons. There was no one out riding it to gauge against. Also, Ocean Beach has a way of ALWAYS being bigger than it looks once you paddle out.
I was fascinated by the sheer power….the energy in the water. Standing in the parking lot I could feel this exuberance in the air. As people pulled up to park their eyes lit up like a kids first trip to the candy store. Explosions of water blasted into the air as the thick-lipped barrels thundered shut. Peaks of mysterious size reared and heaved all the way out to the horizon. I was jealous of the woman who sat in her car with giant binoculars gazing at the outer bars. The inside was pure whitewater chaos. Out of respect I should say that I did actually see 2 guys paddle out a ways and ride 2 giant foamy rollers back to the beach. It looked like they too were curious about the energy in the water. I commend them for taking a feel. I settled for the electricity in the air.
My wife said the ocean reminded her of that famous Hokusai etching of the giant wave off the coast of Kanagawa.
My daughter just kept staring and pointing at the ocean saying, “Waves! Waves! Waves!”
~last winter, too~
What is the magic of big waves?
A few weeks back I was talking my friend Sparky about the biggest waves we’ve experienced. He talked about how he and a crew of guys stood at the water’s edge searching & waiting for a space to paddle out. When the moment came he and only half the crew endured the battle to the outside. Once he got out there however, he realized it was too big and that he wasn’t too keen to catch one. With only one way back to the beach he dropped into one and subsequently received the beating of a lifetime. As he got to the part about how big it was he said, “I’m not sure exactly how big it was but it was HUGE!”
My wife grew up in the bay area with cold, unfriendly OB as her beach. Needless to say she is not comfortable with the ocean. After 8 years together, however I have convinced her to try bodyboarding. We were out in Pacifica riding 1-2' mushy, mellow waves and after crashing on a knee-high wave she popped up with eyes of terror, gasped for air & then returned to the beach because so much adrenalin was flowing through her body that she was shaking and couldn’t catch her breath. In the car she reflected, “Did you see how HUGE that was?”
I love that. There are two different surfers in two totally different conditions who shared the exact same experience! The thing that made it possible was the ‘huge’ waves. Ultimately, the size didn’t matter since it was relative to the individual. Both of them were challenging their own personal potential.
Our potential. How do we achieve it? Paddling out into ‘big’ waves is a great way to explore & learn about how we deal with our potential. It takes planning & preparation to successfully push our limits of wave size. Yeah, sometimes we get lucky and have the easy paddle out along with that one sweet ride but to do that consistently takes dedication & discipline.
There are all the physical preparations like: paddling regularly to build endurance, stretching, studying the waves, swimming to prepare for possible leash breakage, finding the right board. Doing all of that will get you in a very good place but it will be meaningless if the mental preparation is left undone. No matter how great your physical condition and understanding of the break if you panic at the wrong time…..
So I’d say the mental prep is really the most important. How do we do it? I think all of the physical work and studying will definitely help put the mind in the right place. Still, I’ve found there are more barriers that arise. The biggest one for me is fear. I’ll be out on a ‘big’ day for me and that freak set…..that bunch of waves that’s bigger than all the others.….the rogue waves (as my chiropractor calls it) will appear on the horizon. Instantly, fear floods my body. My heart races too fast. My breath becomes shallow. My mind flickers instantly through possible bad outcomes. I’m no longer surfing. The whole experience becomes a life or death encounter. Fortunately, I’ve held it together enough to deal thus far but it’s not solved.
It’s a trippy experience because everything will be fine and then that wave shows up, which is a tad bigger, and my mind shatters. How to trust our experience and stay concentrated when faced with the ‘bigness’ of our potential?
I’m sure there are lots of answers out there. One example of a solution comes from a good friend of mine who wanted to paddle out at Maverick’s. He’s a well-seasoned surfer. He’s traveled extensively. He’s surfed the biggest days at OB. He had researched and talked to friends of his who surfed there. He’d done all of the necessary physical work. From the outsiders point of view he was totally ready. Still, there was hesitation when it came to surfing Maverick’s. The final hurdle was getting over that mental block. His solution: a Maverick’s journal.
Once he decided, “Yes, I’m going to surf this place!”…he began writing about it. Anything and everything that came up relative to making the paddle he jot down. He created a mental workout. It worked. He paddled there last winter! I read that the respected big wave rider, the late Jay Moriarty, also wrote essays as preparation to surfing Maverick’s. There must be something to it! It’s all about the mental exercise…however you decide to get it!
‘Big’ waves could be seen as our potential in our daily lives. How we deal with rogue waves in the water can shed light on how we face the limitless potential of our lives. Marianne Williamson writes:
“Our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate. Our deepest fear is that we are powerful beyond measure. It is our light, not our darkness that most frightens us. We ask ourselves, Who am I to be brilliant, gorgeous, talented, fabulous? Actually, who are you not to be?
No matter how big it gets just keep on riding……
Saturday, November 25, 2006
#6 ~ Wonderful Exhaustion
Candid Shot by DBI dare not forget November as a solid part of the San Francisco surf season. The surf has been so fun for the last week and I have surfed so much that I am wonderfully exhausted. This morning’s session had to be cut short out of sheer muscle fatigue. Good waves kept coming through but my jello arms were giving way to late drops and subsequent thrashings.
When I realized that my get-up-and-go had got-up-and-gone a thought from the Surfer’s Path article on Ocean Beach (issue #55) flowed through my mind. Pete Reich states, “I think it’s tough to get good at Ocean Beach. There’s a lot more paddle time versus ride time, compared to a place like Santa Barbara or San Diego where it’s less intense to get to the surf and ride it. So it’s difficult to learn and progress here, although you do of course learn how to deal with big waves.” That is a pretty accurate description of my last week. Paddle, paddle, paddle and more paddle!
It’s really amazing how much paddling it takes to get waves at OB. Between the treadmill of whitewater, the ever shifting peaks and the relentless sideshore current surfers have to keep their arms moving constantly. The cool thing is that it forces one to be in great physical condition if you want to surf. The tricky side for me is that I have fantasies about being an extremely good surfer which will be difficult to achieve at OB.
Maybe that’s what I love about this place. It’s the ultimate life training ground. Just as in our day to day aspirations if we want something we have to really give it our all to get it. One of my most respected acting teachers Jon Jory achieved amazing success in his still thriving career. Amidst his stories of glory were relentless obstacles. His way of overcoming them was simple: just keep working! By continuing to work he was always learning new things, challenging himself and ultimately triumphing in his medium. OB reinforces this idea through paddling.
At some point it becomes natural to just keep paddling. A 30 minute paddle to reach the line-up followed by an entire session of paddling against the current just to keep from drifting along the beach becomes instinctive in the journey to ride the waves. Even places that are more user friendly will yield rewards to those with a diligent paddle ethic. OB is good for those stubborn students like myself.
Thursday, November 09, 2006
#5 ~ Beginner’s Mind
October…my wife’s birthday month….my buddy DB’s birthday month….my parents wedding anniversary month…..and the beginning of fall……all of this adds up to good times and good surf! This is the time when the conditions at OB all line up for sunny days and offshore winds. It’s no secret. All local surfers who have their head even slightly above water know that this is the beginning of surf season!
I wake up with my daughter at 6:00am everyday. After singing her a few rounds of Bob Marley’s Three Little Birds while freshening her diaper I deliver her to Mom for her daily super vitamin of breast milk. And now it’s time to check the surf. From our back porch I can see the flags hoisted above the city skyline pointing due west as the warm winds come from inland and journey out to sea. They are beacons guiding me to the water. After a cup of hot water to stoke my internal furnace I gather my gear in anticipation of what I will find when I reach the wilderness of Ocean Beach. A few kisses for my ladies begin my quest.
The flags never lie. As I crest the hill of the Great Highway to reveal the ocean I see a surf mag image come to life. Silken barrels are peeling from peaks stretching as far as my eye can see along the shore. Tell-tale mists of water are fanning off the top of every pitching wave. The sun is shining; the air is warm. It’s epic.
I suit up as efficiently as possible to avoid any delays in getting in the water. At the water’s edge I do a warm-up I learned in a Tai Chi class while surveying for a comfortable way to paddle out. Upon entering the water I give thanks to the ocean for welcoming me once again. I also pay my respects to the over 60 million Africans who lost their lives at sea during the 300 year African Slave Trade.
The paddle out always seems easy with the wind at my back. As I paddle over the tops of waves I can see rainbows in the sunlit fanning mists. I see people pulling into and coming out of barrels and fantasize that I may be so fortunate when I reach the line-up. The unridden, unblemished waves are gorgeous. Every breath and glance yields potential.
The vibe in the water reminds me of my childhood days. The whole pack becomes friends as we paddle in this liquid playground. My favorite moments are when a gorgeous set wave appears on the horizon and everyone sends out a cheer…..not because anyone is riding it…..we are simply celebrating the wave! And if someone is fortunate enough to catch it the cheers resound again. We all become the free-spirited, expressive kids from our younger days.
I often think about how growing older tends to coincide with less freedom. A classic scenario of youth is a teenager lashing out in a moment of anger with a thought like “I can’t wait until I’m older so I can do whatever I want!”. To some extent this is true; we can make choices for ourselves once we become ‘of age’. The catch is that we also tend to limit our possibilities…..whether we know it or not. We put barriers around how we behave, how we feel and what we do. For many of us that age ripened ‘wisdom’ translates to having higher, more durable self-limiting walls.
Shunryu Suzuki, the Zen Master who founded the respected Zen Center in San Francisco, states, “In the beginner’s mind there are many possibilities, but in the expert’s mind there are few.”
Age has a way of making us ‘expert’s’. I’ve been on a journey to chip away at these walls. It’s been a bumpy road that’s taken me around the world, through many jobs, upon many meditation cushions & into the water. And since I still find myself running into these invisible walls everyday I am thankful for the epic surf days that bring out the ‘beginner’ in me.
The journey continues……
I wake up with my daughter at 6:00am everyday. After singing her a few rounds of Bob Marley’s Three Little Birds while freshening her diaper I deliver her to Mom for her daily super vitamin of breast milk. And now it’s time to check the surf. From our back porch I can see the flags hoisted above the city skyline pointing due west as the warm winds come from inland and journey out to sea. They are beacons guiding me to the water. After a cup of hot water to stoke my internal furnace I gather my gear in anticipation of what I will find when I reach the wilderness of Ocean Beach. A few kisses for my ladies begin my quest.
The flags never lie. As I crest the hill of the Great Highway to reveal the ocean I see a surf mag image come to life. Silken barrels are peeling from peaks stretching as far as my eye can see along the shore. Tell-tale mists of water are fanning off the top of every pitching wave. The sun is shining; the air is warm. It’s epic.
I suit up as efficiently as possible to avoid any delays in getting in the water. At the water’s edge I do a warm-up I learned in a Tai Chi class while surveying for a comfortable way to paddle out. Upon entering the water I give thanks to the ocean for welcoming me once again. I also pay my respects to the over 60 million Africans who lost their lives at sea during the 300 year African Slave Trade.
The paddle out always seems easy with the wind at my back. As I paddle over the tops of waves I can see rainbows in the sunlit fanning mists. I see people pulling into and coming out of barrels and fantasize that I may be so fortunate when I reach the line-up. The unridden, unblemished waves are gorgeous. Every breath and glance yields potential.
The vibe in the water reminds me of my childhood days. The whole pack becomes friends as we paddle in this liquid playground. My favorite moments are when a gorgeous set wave appears on the horizon and everyone sends out a cheer…..not because anyone is riding it…..we are simply celebrating the wave! And if someone is fortunate enough to catch it the cheers resound again. We all become the free-spirited, expressive kids from our younger days.
I often think about how growing older tends to coincide with less freedom. A classic scenario of youth is a teenager lashing out in a moment of anger with a thought like “I can’t wait until I’m older so I can do whatever I want!”. To some extent this is true; we can make choices for ourselves once we become ‘of age’. The catch is that we also tend to limit our possibilities…..whether we know it or not. We put barriers around how we behave, how we feel and what we do. For many of us that age ripened ‘wisdom’ translates to having higher, more durable self-limiting walls.
Shunryu Suzuki, the Zen Master who founded the respected Zen Center in San Francisco, states, “In the beginner’s mind there are many possibilities, but in the expert’s mind there are few.”
Age has a way of making us ‘expert’s’. I’ve been on a journey to chip away at these walls. It’s been a bumpy road that’s taken me around the world, through many jobs, upon many meditation cushions & into the water. And since I still find myself running into these invisible walls everyday I am thankful for the epic surf days that bring out the ‘beginner’ in me.
The journey continues……
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